<HTML><HEAD>
<META charset=US-ASCII http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; cha=
rset=US-ASCII">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 4/2/2004 9:10:33 AM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspia=
no writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue =
2px solid">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=3><STRONG> HI David </STRONG>=
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=3><STRONG> A different version of the&nb=
sp;remedy that Terry suggested is to fit the block completely however you wa=
nt it first & then with the block dry fit in the case mark the treb=
le end glue joint with a pencil line from underneath the block. R=
emove the block. I then use a porter cable laminate trimmer to reduce o=
nly the thickness of the block at the glue joint or bottom side. Is that cle=
ar? This lowers it to the overall height you want but the block now han=
gs lower than the stretcher. Now to solve this I start with a hand power pla=
ner to hog of the most of the material then finish up with whateve=
r hand planes you have/wish a Terry suggested. Your basically freehandi=
ng a tapered cut.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=3><STRONG> One caveat though is that of=
ten with the block screwed to the plate in the dry fit mode you'll notice th=
at there may be a small tapered gap at between the treble pinblock end &=
the shelf with the block screwed to the plate. Or usually the fro=
nt edge is touching but there is a space towards the back. You may=
have to cut a fine tapered shim or maple veneers on the tablesaw to fill in=
the glue joint. </STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3> As you probably know STWY has=
an extravagant set up to fit the top of the block to the plate flange which=
us lowly underlings can't afford.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3> Dale</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue =
2px solid"><FONT face=Arial>I'm curious what others might do in this situa=
tion. Steinway pianos<BR>frequently taper the thickness of their pinbl=
ocks at the treble end. One I<BR>am replacing now (without replacing t=
he soundboard or bridgecaps--not my<BR>job, so not my choice) is tapered fro=
m 1 1/2" in the bass down to 1 3/8" in<BR>the treble. The choices are =
to use a 1 1/2" block and remove material in a<BR>gradual taper, or to use a=
1 3/8" block and shim the bass end higher which<BR>will then not have the b=
lock flush with the bottom of the stretcher on the<BR>bass end. <BR><B=
R>The best solution short of replacing the board would probably be to replac=
e<BR>the bridge caps. Unfortunately, it is not an option on this job.&=
nbsp; <BR><BR>Should I choose to taper the block, who can suggest a good pow=
er planer<BR>that will do the job quickly and efficiently. My little C=
raftsman can't<BR>handle it. <BR><BR>Any other suggestion or ideas are=
appreciated. <BR><BR><BR>David Love<BR>davidlovepianos@earthlink.net<=
/FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>