<HTML>In a message dated 10/19/2002 4:34:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time, mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:Re: Bridge cap materials Date:10/19/2002 4:34:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time From:<A HREF="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> Sent from the Internet            Terry</BLOCKQUOTE>                  I last thought as to your bridge cap material. Although it's important to have a tight bridge pin fit throughout the bridge the tightest hardest grain is most desireable in the top two sections.  I save the tightest grain  for this area. I replaced a cap on a 1920s baldwin this week that had  a decent grain  (12 14) throughtout) and they were as badly split up as the rest of the belly and I don't think it was a reflection on the grain just age and abuse. I spoke to wally brooks this week about the wide grain stuff. He stated that 12 grains was surely adequate for the bottom part of the bridge. It's also often easier to carve long notches. He gave me some help in the direction of finding tighter grain and understood my concern. but the box of Bolduc maple  I opened had almost nothing I'd use in the top end.    Off to Yosemite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!           Dale Erwin <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> You might want to consider turning down the turbothrusters on that dehumidifier! Your cited climatic conditions will yield an equilibrium moisture content of 3.1%. That is really dry - perhaps more dry than is good for any piano - like the case, etc. And then hitting it with a heat gun? I certainly could be wrong, but seems to me the heat is a bit on the high side with this schedule. Terry Farrell   ----- Original </BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>