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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Thank you.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Lots of places, some of which I will be passing
near.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Other info great too.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>With gear like that, you obviously do more than a
few sets per year?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL
MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 2:50
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: buffing keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Canton flannel buffs are
available from: Woodcraft 1-800-225-1153, Tool Crib 1-800-635-5140, Rockler
1-800-279-4441, Eagle America 1-800-872-2511, The Garrett Wade Tool Co.
1-800-221-2942 and many hardware stores. Be sure not to get a sewn wheel, get
a loose sewn (1 or 2 stitches) and a loose section (1 stitch at the
arbor) Spiral sewn and sisal buffs are much to aggressive for keys but
good for rough cutting metals. When ordering compound, get a buffing compound
not a cutting compound, and I've found that the closer the color to the object
your buffing the better. If your interested in knowing, I use 1hp Baldor
buffing machines @1750 rpm with 10 inch dia. wheels. Separate machines for
plastic, ivory, ebony and metals. Rake your wheels occasionally to keep them
clean.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">John
Ross</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 1:16
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: buffing keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Thank you Michael.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Where are those Canton flannel buffers
available from?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net
href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 1:50
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> buffing keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I have found buffing to be
more of an art than a science. When your buffing ivory and bone you
are doing two things, one is smoothing the surface and removing fine
scratches, the other is sealing the pores. When your buffing plastic you
are smoothing and removing fine scratches and not necessarily sealing it
because plastic is not porous. I have found that a sewn canton
flannel buff followed by an loose canton flannel buff works well for
me. Take into consideration that when you are buffing you are simply
putting the icing on the cake. What do I mean? Buffing is to shine and
seal (in the case of ivory and bone.) The surface preparation should
already be done. Buffing removes fine scratches well, and will leave a
perfectly flat surface. If one relies on buffing to remove deep pits and
scratches, this is where problems arise. The surface will not be perfectly
flat, and heat will be generated. Heat will crack and burn ivory and
bone, heat will melt and deform plastic. The trick is surface preparation,
keep the key moving, and apply the proper pressure. Compound or rouge
plays a role also. Compound can contain abrasives, you want to be sure
that you are using a buffing compound and not a cutting compound. A
cutting compound will leave as many scratches and lines in the top as you
are trying to remove. I look at buffing keys as I look at refinishing a
piano case. Your surface preparation and repairs must be done first,
spraying lacquer on a piano sanded and left in 80 grit will not be as
smooth and look as good as a case sanded to 600 grit, grain-filled and
sprayed.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">John Ross</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 12:06
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded Keytops,
problems buffing</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Hi,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Joe had mentioned problems
buffing.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I also have problems in this
area.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on a softer buffing wheel,
but have been unable to find a source. The selections available at my
suppliers, are limited. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Any ideas?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on slowing the wheel down.
Would that help?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>John M. Ross</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A>
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net
href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005
11:50 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded
Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I agree with you 100%,
thank you, it is wonderful that you know these things and are willing
to share them. Molded keytops are all the same dimension within one
set. Keysticks unfortunately are not (except for several sets of
Yamaha keys I've covered that were within 0.004 of each other).
I've found that most sets of keys differ in length, width and height.
I have one set of keys I'm recovering now where the keysticks vary in
width up to 0.065. This makes recovering them tricky. If you have a
keystick wider than the top you will have to trim the stick, if the
top is wider you will have to trim the top. Molded tops being the same
width have the contours and radiuses "molded" into them, so if you
trim this you will, as you said then have to reshape them, the
radiuses and contour to match and yes, the dreaded buffing. I prefer
to apply what I call custom tops. This is similar to factory
procedures in which you apply a separate top and front. If done this
way one can trim the excess and shape the keys regardless of the
inconsistencies in width and yield good visual results. I've found
that buffing plastic and ivory both have there areas of concern, but I
use different wheels and techniques for both with good results. On the
topic of keytop materials, I'm pretty sure I have all of the
material available within the states and offer them. I have also
acquired material from Aug. Laukhuff and Otto Heuss from Germany
as well as P&S organ supply from England. These materials are of
very high quality and texture but expense prevents their wide use.
I've noticed that piano manufacturers are trending towards thicker and
thicker tops, this means replacement tops will need to be thicker. I
actually have a stash of keytop material that is 0.105 thick, but very
rarely use them. I am not adverse to machining down the keystick to
accommodate a new top because I am doing it on milling machines with
tolerances to within a few thousandths of an inch, and it must be
done. If one measures a keystick at 0.970 and is putting on a top that
is 0.075 than you machine the key to 0.895 and you have retained the
original dimension. The original dimension must be maintained or there
will be a regulation nightmare. In some cases I find that a
keystick has been machined with little regard for tolerances, and then
a corrective measure must be applied. Three choices exist, have a new
keyboard made, use a thicker or thinner top (depending on which
direction the error is made), or build up the keys. Two of these
choices are very expensive. Keytop replacement is tricky and is a
decision that should be well thought out. The keyboard is a major
focal point of the piano, it is the interaction point with the piano
and is the foundation of all regulation. It is a challenge to balance
appearance, playability and economy. Joe, what do you mean by "stink
in my shop?" are you referring to a particular glue or the smell of
machining off old plastic and ivory? Mike</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joegarrett@earthlink.net
href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">Joe Garrett</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005
1:03 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded
Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael Morvan said: "<FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3>The quality of the keytop, quality of
the =<BR>piano, quality of the rebuild, preference of the customer,
knowledge and =<BR>preference of the technician and budget. Crappy
"molded" keytops are =<BR>nice if applied properly, and three
thousand dollars worth of new ivory =<BR>is "crappy" if not applied
properly. Molded keytops have the advantage =<BR>of being
inexpensive, uniform in shape and appearance, and relatively
=<BR>easy to apply with minimal skill, tooling and yields fair
results. A =<BR>disadvantage is that many people feel that
they are a cheap top and as a =<BR>result do not use
them."</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Michael,</DIV>
<DIV>What you've said, I agree with. However, it's what you didn't
say about moulded keytops that concerns me.</DIV>
<DIV>1. Moulded keytops assumes that all key sets are the same
dimension, which they are not. Therefore, trimming is necessary.
Here lies the rub, as trimming of moulded keytop material is far
more difficult than other materials. Especially in making the key
set look consistant and have a smooth feel under the players hands.
Secondly, if you've ever had to (try) to buff out scratches of
moulded key top material, (and I'm sure you have, if you do keytops
for a living.), it's next to impossible, as the material is too soft
and will "burn/gaul" when even light pressure on a buffing wheel is
applied. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's a royal pain in
the patoot to do!<G> Lastly, my aversion to moulded keytops is
that it is too thick, especially for many older pianos with tight
tolerances of the piano furniture. This requires milling the
keystick down. I am totally averse to this practice for many
reasons. Some of the "moulded keytop material" from Europe is better
as some of it is what we call "Plexiglass". This material can be
sanded and buffed. It's still too thick for my eye.<G> I too
do keytops, but as only part of my overall service to my clients. I
used to have someone else do it, as I really don't like the stink in
my shop. Out of frustration with others I've taken to doing
it....stink or not.<G></DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool
Police<BR>Squares R
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