<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; =
charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Joe Garrett
wrote:<BR></EM></FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>I did exactly that, back in the =
late 70's, (at
the request of Yamaha, I might add.<G>). It is definately the way =
to go.
You will need to change the plain wire to wound on the tenor bridge. =
It's been a
while since I've done one of these, (I've done several, al with =
excellent
results!) As I recall, the first 6 notes on the long bridge need to be =
wound. I
still have the scale data, somewhere in my 'puter cobwebs, but I'd have =
to
search for it.</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><EM>It is not necessary to modify the bridge in any way. just use =
the
outside bridge pins of each note, leaving the center blank. </EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Well yes, that is one way to go - and one that =
will
definately yield improvement - but not necessarily the approach =
that yields
the most improvement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Also, the same for the tuning pins. =
As I
recall, I left the "blank" tuning pin in place, so that it had a nice
appearance. You will have to add som hitch pins. As I sent all of my
schematics/blueprints to Yamaha, I don't have a copy of the hitch pin =
pattern.
It's fairly easy to figure out where they need to be added. It is
suggested that you add the hitch pins BEFORE ordering the strings, so =
that all
dimensions of tails, winding start/finish, will be correct. =
</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>You may be able to get all this =
info, plus the
exact strings, from Yamaha, but I don't know wether they consider this =
an
"antique" piano and would want to be bothered. They do have all of the
information, as I presented it, hopefully. After all they did pay me to =
do the
research on it.<G> Since that time they used the info on their =
next
version of the GH-1 and then for some darned reason, changed it two more =
times,
(not for the better, either, IMHO)!</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>One big caution: The original GH-1 =
had little
or not support beams, so the piano is really squirrely! Remove only the =
absolute
minimum strings to access the area for hitch pins etc.! It will go 20+ =
cents
sharp when you do this! Not to worry. Once you have the new strings on =
and
tuned, the darned thing will go right back to pitch, (pre-work pitch)! =
Go
figger.<G></EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Once the work is done, you'll =
probably have to
correct the "voicing" that was previously, (and to no avail), done, in =
that
section. Once that is taken care of, you'll love how nice that =
"transition" can
be, for a small piano.</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Hmmmm, you'd likely notice a significant improvement =
in the
transtion, but to experience "how nice" a transition can be, you'd want =
to
consider adding a transition bridge - or more!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial
size=2><EM></EM></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>