<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Alan, I don't consider myself much of = an "Old-timer" since I'm still under 55, but I've had great success with = sandpaper. It must be cloth backed, though. I'll use 60 or 80 grit, doesn't seem to = matter much, because the grit faces outward anyway. When I first got into = tuning, I bought an old junker huge upright that was basically shot, had to shim a = lot of pins. I tuned that old wreck three four times a day for a year and a = half to two years. The cloth backed sandpaper worked like a charm, felt as good as a = decent pinblock, and didn't wear out. That's probably more tunings than a = regular piano would get in fifty years. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    I wouldn't try to = use this method on a piano that has every pin loose, but for the few, it's been = great. If a piano has bushings, and most do, I don't see how CA glue can get to = the block.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    Kevin E. = Ramsey</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">I have had excellent results with the old #80 or #60 sandpaper shims. And<BR>haven't noticed any jumping  or other naughty behavior on = the part of the<BR>shimmed pins.<BR><BR>What advantages do you see in using the = leather?<BR><BR>How about leather vs. sandpaper vs. veneer strips?<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>