<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV>Although I don't know for sure how long the method I have = used will last, I do know there are many types of epoxy out there and many of them = will not necessarily make a strong bond to wood. At <A href="http://westsystem.com">http://westsystem.com</A>, in the user = manual is the process I follow. Also in the user manual are all sorts of = recommendations for surface prep of various woods, methods and guidelines for mixing = epoxy and fillers, etc. I believe it is imperative that these recommended = procedures be followed for successful results. An excerpt from the WestSystem web site = manual follows:<BR> <BR><FONT color=#ff0000>Two-step = bonding<BR> <BR>1. Wet-out bonding surfaces-Apply a neat resin/hardener mixture (without = fillers) to the surfaces to be joined (Figure 9). Wet out small or tight areas = with a disposable brush. Wet out larger areas with a foam roller or by = spreading the resin/hardener mixture evenly over the surface with a plastic spreader. = You may proceed with step two immediately or any time before the wet-out coat = reaches the final cure stage.<BR>     <BR>2. Apply thickened = epoxy to one bonding surface. Modify the resin/hardener mixture by stirring in = the appropriate filler until it becomes thick enough to bridge any gaps = between the mating surfaces and to prevent "resin-starved" joints. Apply enough of = the mixture to one of the surfaces, so that a small amount will squeeze out = when the surfaces are joined together with a force equivalent to a firm hand grip = (Figure 10).<BR> <BR>Thickened epoxy can be applied immediately over the = wet-out surface or any time before the wet-out reaches its final cure. For most = small bonding operations, add the filler to the resin/hardener mixture = remaining in the batch that was used for the wet-out. Mix enough resin/hardener for = both steps. Add the filler quickly after the surface is wet out and allow for = a shorter working life of the mixture.<BR></FONT> <BR>Used properly, = I suspect a good epoxy like West System will hold up at least as long as = the rest of the pinblock. West System epoxies have been used in the marine = industry for at least three decades. The iceboats and other boats put together with = this epoxy experience much more drastic climatic condition changes than = (most) any piano pinblock will ever see. A good example is the use of epoxy for = attaching wooden motor mounts to boat framing in the bilge. The wood in that = area experiences tremendous stresses from the motor vibration and torque, and = well as repeated submersion into water and subsequent drying out, and = temperatures ranging from below freezing to tropical. It's hard for me to imagine = plugs not staying put if the epoxy job is done right.<BR> <BR>Still not = proof for pinblock plugs. But I feel comfortable with the process when done = according to manufacturers recommendations. And of course, all this is not to say = that plugging is better than replacing the block!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Terry Farrell<BR> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>  <BR>----- Original Message ----- <BR>From: "Delwin D = Fandrich" <<A href="mailto:pianobuilders@olynet.com">pianobuilders@olynet.com</A>>= <BR>To: "Pianotech" <<A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>><BR>Sent: = Tuesday, December 31, 2002 12:00 PM<BR>Subject: Re: Knabe Grand/Plugs</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><BR>> <BR>> ----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: "Ron = Nossaman" <<A = href="mailto:RNossaman@cox.net">RNossaman@cox.net</A>><BR>> To: "Pianotech" <<A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>><BR>> = Sent: December 31, 2002 8:30 AM<BR>> Subject: Re: Knabe Grand/Plugs<BR>> <BR>> = <BR>> ><BR>> > >Plugging an intact pin block is often my = choice, especially with<BR>> open-faced<BR>> > >types. I use 3/4" = plugs so that they interlock. Once that is<BR>> accomplished, I<BR>> > >veneer over the plugs with something like birdseye maple. It is really<BR>> nice<BR>> > >looking and has an original = finished look about it. The trick is in the<BR>> > >"fixture" needed to do = all the drilling.<BR>> > >Best Regards,<BR>> > >Joe Garrett, = RPT, (Oregon)<BR>> ><BR>> > I've done this with 1/2" plugs and = veneer overlay. Drilled with the same<BR>> > setup I normally use = drilling pinblocks in the piano.<BR>> ><BR>> > Ron N<BR>> <BR>> = <BR>> Joe & Ron,<BR>> <BR>> I've pretty much resisted doing = this through the whole block simply because<BR>> I don't trust the = structural integrity of the resultant plug/glue/epoxy<BR>> mass. Given the = vagaries of wood expansion and contraction with climate<BR>> changes, just how = stable is this some-unpredictable mass going to be over,<BR>> say, 30 or 40 = years. I've examined several of these jobs done by others<BR>> after just a = couple of years and have always been able to see at least some<BR>> = print-through image of the plugs on the veneer face. It's made me wonder<BR>> just what = is going on down there.<BR>> <BR>> Del<BR>> <BR>> _______________________________________________<BR>> pianotech list = info: <A href="https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives">http://www.ptg.org= /mailman/listinfo/pianotech</A> </DIV></BODY></HTML>