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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net" =
title=gnewell@ameritech.net>Greg
Newell</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href="mailto:Pianotech@ptg.org"
title=Pianotech@ptg.org>Pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, February 28, =
2001 8:18
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> VJ lube</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>O.K. folks,<BR> I spent some time tonight =
making one
incredible mess making this<BR>witches brew we call VJ-Lube. Could =
someone
post the most common uses<BR>for this goop? I think I made more than =
enough to
last for a room full<BR>of techs. BTW, how did this stuff get it's =
name
anyway?<BR><BR>--<BR>Greg Newell<BR>Greg's Piano Forté<BR>19270 =
Harlon
Ave.<BR>Lakewood, Ohio 44107<BR>216-226-3791<BR><A
=
href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</A></D=
IV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I as well one night made enough VJ lube to last =
the rest of
my career. It's named for Vick Jackson, a technician who was =
supposedly
well-known in the 70's & 80's --maybe he's still out there. =
It
wasn't all that messy. First you melt Vaseline in a sauce pan, =
then
saturate it with (unscented) talc and add lanolin -- I have the =
proportions
somewhere but it would take me a while to find. When well mixed, =
you let
it cool and stuff it into film cans or other small portable =
containers.
I think it works great and a little dab'll do ya -- no need to glop it =
on. I use it on the bushings for damper lifter rods, keyframe =
guide
pins, dags, grand action return springs, under the glide bolts, on any =
trapwork springs, the tops of bottoms of pedal rods, the pivot pins of =
pedals,
sometimes on areas of "polyester squeak" (two polished surfaces =
against each
other), lid hinge pins that are tight, almost anything that squeaks, =
but not
on keypins, center pins, or action springs (I usually polish the =
spring and
use a pencil in the slot there). Also not to lube the whole =
keybed for
action shift -- there I vacuum first and sparingly apply and rub-in =
unscented
talc, just under the front and back rails, with a small dab of VJ =
under the
glide bolts, or sometimes graphite or teflon powder. Squeaky key =
bushings where the pin is wearing felt down to the glue or wood get =
powdered
teflon (temporarily, until they can be rebushed), since VJ would be a =
bit
heavy or thick for keypins. Squeaky spoons also get powdered
teflon. I've used VJ on the glides or channels for sliding =
fallboards,
as a temporary silencer of squeaky pedal lyres, lyre braces, and also =
on
screws to make them go in easier, if I don't have Door-Ease or beeswax =
on
hand. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> Sometime in the late 70's, many =
manufacturers went from quality wood screws to those thin, =
sharp-threaded,
sharp-pointed, trumpet head Phillips ones that look like drywall =
screws, and
they ran them in with power drivers and no lube. Sometimes these =
are
hell and probably wrist-damaging to get out. I always put VJ =
lube on
them before putting 'em back in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> I'd guess one film can lasts me =
from 3 to
5 years (?). Sincerely, David
Nereson<BR></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>