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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Matt, what I do is =
perhaps the
easiest, and usually gets me perfect results. ( I like what Roger had to =
say
about installing new tray felt) </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> What I do when =
I want to
re-set damper timing, like when the dampers are almost down on the key =
ends, and
lifting immediately, is to go under the piano and adjust the pedal rod =
nut up a
bit. Then I come back up, put my finger on the top of a damper (lightly) =
and
depress the key. The damper will stop the hammer rise where it contacts =
the back
of the key. This is how I check the timing. I just raise the pedal rod =
nut until
the damper timing is at one third to one half blow distance. Then I pull =
the
action, loosen all the damper screws, lift the underlevers, making sure =
they're
free. Then you can tap the dampers lightly down into position, =
re-tighten the
screws, and re-regulate the pedal nut. After correcting the ones that =
inevitably
twist upon tightening the screws, you're basically done. You'll =
inevitably run
into some that are a little tight on the wire, but not bad enough to run =
a drill
bit down into. just lift the underlever up on the wire, and after the =
dampers
are down in position, tap the underlever down on the tray lightly. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> All you're really =
doing is
setting the timing to the same thing that will be lifting the dampers; =
the tray.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> The only problem =
with this in a
Steinway is that often the tray is not level. It will end up with a =
damper
timing that's earlier in the bass and later in the treble, which is the =
opposite
from what I'd really like. I just did this the other day, and after =
about a half
hour's work, they all lifted perfectly with the pedal. It's a really =
good
technique. Richard Davenport taught me this. I've probably =
corrupted his
technique, so if anyone has a problem with how I described it, blame me, =
not
Richard. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Kevin E. Ramsey<BR><A
href="mailto:ramsey@extremezone.com">ramsey@extremezone.com</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=ptuner@optonline.net =
href="mailto:ptuner@optonline.net">Matt
Wynne</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, June 07, 2002 =
3:04 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Adjusting dampers to =
tray</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Greeting esteemed colleagues:<BR><BR>I will be =
reassembling a
damper system in an old S&S grand. It is one of <BR>those =
systems
that was born without regulating screws on each underlever <BR>for =
adjustment
to the lift tray. Is there any efficient way to adjust them =
<BR>so that
they all lift in unison with the pedal? I'm aware of the old =
<BR>method
using center rail punchings, or something similar, as shims, but =
<BR>there
must be a better way. Any advice would be
appreciated.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR><BR>-Matt =
Wynne</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>