<html> Mike,          I have not had that problem to that extent.  Tap the pins with a hammer and punch, it should solve the problem. Regards Roger At 07:50 PM 9/6/02 -0500, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Hi Roger, I like your idea about using the proper length lag bolt.  But I'm not convinced that letting down the tension is a good idea.  I've only done this repair once - I dropped the tension about 1/4 turn on the pins (piano was already way flat).  when I went to raise pitch, many pins would only turn a small amount before they bound up tight.  It felt like they were bottoming out in their holes , like maybe the epoxy wicked in there and filled the holes behind the pins.  Do you ever have a problem with the epoxy wicking in around the tuning pins and making them extremely hard to turn?  Mike Spalding RPT ----- Original Message ----- From: Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre <baldwin@mta-01.sk.sympatico.ca> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 5:00 PM Subject: Re: separated pin block > Hi Leslie, >                   I have fixed dozens of these type of problems.  More > often than not the lag bolts will only go in to the pin block assembly, and > many of the bolts are actually pushing the back assembly away from the pin > block. > Drop the tension off the strings. > Get some lag bolts that will about the length of the top thickness.  Drill > a clearance hole through the block material, and the correct sized pilot > hole through the back assembly. > When gluing and screwing two pieces of wood together, it is wise to have a > clearance hole through the first piece, and the correct sized pilot hole in > the second. This will prevent the screw thread from pushing one piece of > lumber away from the other, which is what has happened so often before. > With the aid of about 6 good C clamps, dry fit the joint back > together.   Drill holes. Insert long lag bolts.  remove clamps to check to > see if the bolts hold. > Remove bolts. the split will open up. > Use west system epoxy, ( or equivalent) ( water thin type) work lots into > crack.  Tighten clamps and bolts, making sure you have squeeze out.  Clean > excess epoxy with acetone soaked rag. > This will give you an invisible repair.No protruding nuts at the rear of > the piano to scar the customers wall.  The long lag bolts that Yamaha > grands have in their packing cases are perfect for most jobs. > Wait at least 24hrs before putting the tension back on. > I think I would get rid of that heater box, and install a proper Damp > Chaser with a control system. > Regards Roger > > At 12:55 PM 9/6/02 -0500, you wrote: > >I have a customer with an Everett console, the pin block on which is > >separating from the back posts and frame.  Not much more than 3/16 of an > >inch at the bass end, none at the treble end. Does one simply remove the > >top row of plate screws, drill all the way through, and put stove bolts > >through, or does one also use part of the screws lower down? > > > >What diameter of bolts? > > > >Does one have to lower tension on strings before pulling them up? > > > >Does one put glue down in the crack? > > > >The piano seems awfully dry. A heater bar with a small brown box was > >installed, but I have a hunch the little brown box didn't turn the bar > >off, and it's been drying away for some years. > >thanks > >les bartlett > > > >________________________________________________________________ > >GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > >Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > >Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit: > ><a href="http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/" eudora="autourl">http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/</a>. > > Roger > > > </blockquote> </html>