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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Brad,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I always add a screw through each =
flange into the
rail. I don't have one to look at right now but if memory serves, move =
the
springs out of the way and drill for about a 5/8 x 3 screw. Pilot hole, =
through
hole, and counter sink. Scribe a line where you want them, there aren't =
too many
places to put them, eyeball each center of flange, very light center =
punch, then
drill on the drill press (or not), counter sink first, then through =
hole, then
pilot. Careful not to weaken springs when turning them out of the way to =
drill.
You might be able to drill with out moving them. Or, do it right, =
determine the
desired spring tension and readjust them on replacement with a gram
gauge.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I don't think there is overkill with a =
back
action.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3>Hi List,
<BR>Any do's and don't regarding the reinforcement of damper back
action<BR>flanges? <BR><BR>I just don't want to have ANY flanges come =
loose
after new damper felt and<BR>regulation work is done. <BR>Piano in =
question is a
Steinway M getting all new action parts (except back<BR>action), damper =
felt,
block and restring. <BR><BR>I have used CA glue to 'shore up' the glued =
flanges
in the past. <BR>Has anyone tried drilling through the glued =
flanges; then
dowel and glue<BR>them in place? Is that overkill? <BR><BR>As always, =
THANKS for
your collective wisdom!<BR><BR>Best regards,<BR>Brad Smith,
RPT</FONT><BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>