<HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2627" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV> <DIV>Question (based on zero experience in this procedure): When you have do all that, wouldn't it be easier, faster, and cheaper just to start with a new piece of lumber?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV>Alan Barnard</DIV> <DIV>Salem, Missouri</DIV> <DIV> </DIV></DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">Farrell</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 05/31/2005 11:44:26 AM </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: woe on the boat,(block epoxy)</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wow Ed, indeed, a weak moment! Good to see you are tough enough for it though!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Pinblock. I assume the plate is out of the piano (how else did you remove the soundboard?). Plug the block with plugs cut from pinblock material of your choice. Webb Phillips sells Delignit and maple multi-lam 1/2-inch and 3/8-inch plugs. Some people drill the same size hole, use Tightbond and pound them in. I drill an oversize hole and epoxy them in place with West System. Make heap strong pinblock. Pinblock look like crap, but get real solid - just like new (or in this case, likely better). If you want the full story of all my trials and tribulations on using epoxy in such a case, just holler. Picture of epoxied-in pinblock plugs (square grand).</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:410-2200552312148221981@13071999" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>SNIP</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> The block is the last real task to deal with. The block comprises <BR>> the upper portion of the sounding assembly and there was no way to remove it <BR>> without completely destroying the piano and starting from scratch. <BR>>    The piano was strung with atypical tuning pins, (at least, in my <BR>> experience).  They are .250" diameter and only 2 inches long.  These are smaller than <BR>> any piano pins I know of, and larger than the zither/harpsichord pins.  The <BR>> dainty little plate doesn't encourage me to drill the holes out to accomodate <BR>> the 1/0 pins, and they are all too long,anyhow.   I can only imagine re-using <BR>> the originals.  There was marginal torque on quite a few of them prior to <BR>> disassembly, so I want to treat the block before driving them back.  <BR>>    I have, against all my "traditional" training, become a fan of CA glue in <BR>> the treatment of loose pins, but I wonder if I can't do something a little <BR>> more extreme with this block.  I know that some of you have used the West System <BR>> epoxy in block repair, and would like to know what your technique is.  The <BR>> block is a solid beech beam with two very thin laminations on top.  Any ideas?  <BR>> Thanks, <BR>> <BR>> Ed Foote RPT </FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>