<html> Hi Carl,            I polish finish them before reaming, as you don't want dried laquer flakes in the hole or counter sink.  Line your agraffe tool with PVC electrical tape, and you won't mark the finished product. Regards Roger At 04:13 PM 4/14/01 -0700, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite cite>Someone commented that they spray the agraffes with hi-gloss lacquer for appearance sake or to prevent tarnish. Question:  Am I right to assume you do this after installation in the plate?  If before, wouldn't the tool ruin the finish when installing them? Thanks Carl Meyer <blockquote> <dl> <dd>----- Original Message ----- <dd>From: <a href="mailto:sec@overspianos.com.au">Overs Pianos</a> <dd>To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a> <dd>Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 3:18 PM <dd>Subject: Re: Using the agraffe cutter <dd>List, <dd>I got a private email requesting further information on the use of the agraffe cutter, so I thought I'd post my reply to the list also for those who are interested. <blockquote type=cite cite> <dd>. . . .  Do you use it in a drill press or in a handle manually?</blockquote> <dd>We use two methods. <dd>The first and oldest; <dd>The drill is fixed to a bench vise to face the operator with the axis of the drill in a horizontal position and at about waist height, using an adapter I made for mounting the drill to the tool post of the lathe. <dd>A stop will need to be fitted to the shank of the cutter, to ensure that the cutter enters the string hole to the correct depth. Too little depth will not give the donut shape the correct profile (the string contact with the brass will be too wide). Too much depth will result in a sharpened inner string hole profile which will not allow the brass to withstand the string up bearing pressure. <dd>The drill is run at low speed only, since very little material is removed, and the faster the drill, the shorter the tool life of the cutter. <dd>We use a brass handle for holding the agraffes up to the cutter. This is made from a piece of 15 mm hex, free machining brass say 150 mm long. A threaded hole is cut in each end for a different kind of agraffe thread, eg. we have one with a 1/4 x 36 tpi in one end and a 7/32 x 36 tpi in the other. The body of the holder is tapered at each end to provide good operator vision, and the threaded holes are free bored such that the agraffe will only be held by a couple of threads. This allows for fast insertion and removal of the agraffes from the holder (This holder is also handy for polishing agraffes). <dd>With the agraffe in the holder, it is moved towards the cutter being careful to hold the agraffe such that the axis of the string hole lines up with the axis of the cutter. The holes are cut from both sides. After cutting the second side of agraffe holes, it is turned and the first three holes cut are just lightly cut again to ensure that no burr remains in the string hole. <dd>The second and most recent method. <dd>We now own a small three axis mill/drill with tilting head (which we purchased for making action models, but it's also very useful for other piano type small engineering jobs). <dd>The cutter is held in the mill which has accurate depth stop control. A small flat surface is mounted on the mill table, and set up as a backing for the flat of the agraffe. The agraffe is held with the holder as described above for the first method. The depth stop of the mill is adjusted to allow for the correct insertion of the cutter. <dd>The second method is by far the best. A small drill press could be used instead of the mill, but accurate depth control is more difficult to achieve with a standard drill press. <dd>Ron O <dd>-- <dd>_________________________ <dd>Website:  <a href="http://www.overspianos.com.au/" eudora="autourl">http://www.overspianos.com.au</a> <dd>Email:      <a href="mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au" eudora="autourl">mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au</a> <dd>_________________________</blockquote> </dl> </html>