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<font size=3>I forgot to mention that you should only put a little
glue<br>
on one side of the wedge to tack it in place, in the event<br>
that it becomes necessary for future adjustments.<br>
<br>
Jon Page<br>
<br>
At 11:02 PM 02/09/2000 -0800, you wrote:<br>
>Hey I had a 50/50 chance. I should have just kept my mouth
<br>
>shut for a little longer...<br>
><br>
>David I.<br>
><br>
>Date sent:
<x-tab> </x-tab>Wed, 09 Feb 2000
20:05:57 -0500<br>
>To:
<x-tab> </x-tab>pianotech@ptg.org<br>
>From:
<x-tab> </x-tab>Jon Page
<jonpage@mediaone.net><br>
>Subject:
<x-tab> </x-tab>Re: Bedding
Blues<br>
>Send reply to:
<x-tab> </x-tab>pianotech@ptg.org<br>
><br>
>> David,<br>
>> You had it right the first time. A wedge driven into a kerf on
one side of<br>
>> a board will bow in that direction. So if the center is high, a
shim placed<br>
>> on the bottom will flatten it out. Actually a long tapered wedge
can be<br>
>> driven in the appropriate distance. A cut is made about a fourth
to one<br>
>> third the thickness into the rail. I have used a router with a
straight bit<br>
>> and<br>
>> set the guides to make the taper. A long spline cut to the same
taper can<br>
>> be driven in to straighten it out. A few may be needed.<br>
>> <br>
>> I think it was Yamaha which did this on grand keyframes years
ago.<br>
>> <br>
>> Kerf's up,<br>
>> <br>
>> Jon Page<br>
>> <br>
>> At 04:08 PM 02/09/2000 -0800, you wrote:<br>
>> >Yeah, If you wedge from the bottom it forces it
up...oops....<br>
>> ><br>
>> >David I.<br>
>> ><br>
>>
>From:
"Paul" <tunenbww@clear.lakes.com><br>
>>
>To:
<pianotech@ptg.org><br>
>>
>Subject:
Re: Bedding Blues<br>
>> >Date
sent:
Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:34:56 -0600<br>
>> >Send reply
to:
pianotech@ptg.org<br>
>> ><br>
>> >> David<br>
>> >> I used this wedging technique on a warped Kawai key
frame. The cut(s) was<br>
>> >> made in the top of the key frame and veneer was epoxied
in the kerf.<br>
>> >> Keyframe bedded perfectly and to date there has been no
problems with it.<br>
>> >> <br>
>> >> Paul Chick<br>
>> >> Plainview MN<br>
>> >> ----- Original Message -----<br>
>> >> From: David ilvedson <ilvey@jps.net><br>
>> >> To: <pianotech@ptg.org><br>
>> >> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 12:15 PM<br>
>> >> Subject: Re: Bedding Blues<br>
>> >> <br>
>> >> <br>
>> >> > Consider making a cut on the bottom rail and
putting in wedge<br>
>> >> > which will bow it down?<br>
>> >> ><br>
>> >> > David I.<br>
>> >> ><br>
>> >> > Date sent: Wed, 09
Feb 2000 18:22:45 +0100<br>
>> >> >
From: Richard
Brekne <richardb@c2i.net><br>
>> >> >
To:
"pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org><br>
>> >> > Subject:
Bedding Blues<br>
>> >> > Send reply to: pianotech@ptg.org<br>
>> >> ><br>
>> >> > > Hi list<br>
>> >> > ><br>
>> >> > > Ok.. I got this Schimmel long 6 footer, and
it simply wont bed right..<br>
>> >> > > lots and lots of spring in the middle tenor
(# 25 - 40) which causes<br>
>> >> > > this unbelievable bounce in the hammers at
rest while playing hard, and<br>
>> >> > > causes lots of lost power.. After doing
everything possible to correct<br>
>> >> > > the bedding and getting nowhere I discovered
that the balance rail is<br>
>> >> > > way off from flush with the framwork on the
keyframe.<br>
>> >> > ><br>
>> >> > > This particular configuration is such that
the balance rail is cut out<br>
>> >> > > too accommidate the cross boards of the
keyframe, and they should<br>
>> >> > > present a flat surface where they are joined.
But at key 35 or so on<br>
>> the<br>
>> >> > > treble side of the crossboard the balance
rail is about 0,70 mm off<br>
>> >> > > (away from the keybed).<br>
<font size=3>>> >> > ><br>
>> >> > > All keyframe screws are tightened down as
much as I can get them. For<br>
>> >> > > the moment I simply added a 1mm front paper
bushing to the area (the<br>
>> >> > > balance rail is also warped upwards in the
tenor section, and bends<br>
>> >> > > upwards and away from the bed again from
about key 50 onwards, tho<br>
>> >> > > bedding screws take care of that
problem)<br>
>> >> > ><br>
>> >> > > I am wondering what is best to do here... I
could install a "sleeper"<br>
>> >> > > bedding screw right in the middle of this
section, or I could perhaps<br>
>> >> > > plane the whole underside flat again,
or perhaps build up the<br>
>> offending<br>
>> >> > > part with some laminate..<br>
>> >> > ><br>
>> >> > > Advice boys and girls ???<br>
>> >> > ><br>
>> >> > > Richard Brekne<br>
>> >> > > Associate PTG, N.P.T.F.<br>
>> >> > > Bergen, Norway<br>
>> >> > ><br>
>> >> ><br>
>> >> ><br>
>> >> > David Ilvedson, RPT<br>
>> >> > Pacifica, CA<br>
>> >> > ilvey@jps.net<br>
>> >> ><br>
>> >> <br>
>> >> <br>
>> ><br>
>> ><br>
>> >David Ilvedson, RPT<br>
>> >Pacifica, CA<br>
>> >ilvey@jps.net<br>
>> > <br>
>> Jon Page, piano technician<br>
>> Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.<br>
>>
<a href="mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl"><font size=3>mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net</a><br>
<font size=3>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <br>
><br>
><br>
>David Ilvedson, RPT<br>
>Pacifica, CA<br>
>ilvey@jps.net<br>
> </font><br>
<div>Jon Page, piano technician</div>
<div>Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.</div>
<div><a href="mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net" EUDORA=AUTOURL>mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net</a></div>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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