<HTML>For making the agraffe hole wall cylindrical = (meaning how it was before string wear) I use several "D" bit reamers approx= 1.5 inch long in whatever size or two sizes is next larger than the origina= l agraffe hole. (too lazy to go and mike them) I get these as drill rod, and= grind a 20 or so degree point on the end. The sharp edge where the angle me= ets the cylindrical edge of the reamer/drill rod is what does the cutting. T= he end result is a neatly re-sized hole with better geometry. You could use = lubricant to cut but I don't, and hand guiding seems to allow the bit to ali= gn itself. BY the way, any machinist coud easily make one or two agraffes in odd sizes = like M&H using a thread die on free-cut brass rod in the lathe, and mill= shoulders when done. $45 seems a little pricey David Love wrote: > > I typically ream agraffes when either installing new ones or reconstitu= ting > old ones. Periodically, the holes are not large enough to accommodat= e the > small reamer that I got from (Pianotech?) some time ago. I don't wis= h to > enlarge the hole. Any one have suggestions about the best way to dre= ss the > countersink in this case.</HTML>