<html xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" = xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=ProgId content=Word.Document> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 9"> <meta name=Originator content="Microsoft Word 9"> <link rel=File-List href="cid:filelist.xml@01C41965.6FE0A0C0">  <style>  </style> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = name="State"/><o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = name="City"/><o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = name="place"/> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple = style='tab-interval:.5in'> <div class=Section1> I = remember in the early days of working on pianos being leery of making these kinds = of adjustments. Actually it turns out to be the easiest way to correct the = kinds of problems you are facing. Don’t hesitate to shim the balance or = front rail (add or remove) to correct out of adjustment key dip, if the out of = adjustment is pervasive to an entire section, as you are seeing. I cut strips of = 3X5 cards for shim stock about ½ inch wide (you can use the previous = tuner’s card left in the piano in a pinch ;-) ). If you want to get tricky, you can raise the = sharps only or the whites only by shimming the respective sides of the balance = rail, instead of pushing the shim all the way through. = <o:p></o:p> <!= [if = !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p> Re= member that generally you only need half as much on the balance rail as you do = the front rail. One or two thicknesses of card stock on the balance rail = will make a substantial difference. <o:p></o:p> <!= [if = !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p> An= d generally, my experience, is that only the balance rail needs shimmed = up. In your case, since it is happening in the middle, just shim at the bass = break and the treble break. No need to shim at the ends if key dip is good there. = <o:p></o:p> <!= [if = !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p> Wh= y does it happen? Who knows. Sagging, humidity, felt compression, poor factory = set up, phase of moon change…<o:p></o:p> <!= [if = !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p> Dean<o:p></o:p><= /font> <![if = !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p></= p> Dean May             cell = 812.239.3359<o:p></o:p></= p> PianoRebuilders.com   = 812.235.5272<o:p></o:p></= p> Terre Haute IN  47802<o:p></o:p> <= span class=EmailStyle18><![if = !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p> -----Original Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On = Behalf Of Ed Carwithen Sent: Saturday, April 03, = 2004 10:04 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: kimball = advice <![if = !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p> I was called to work on a Kimball console piano this week.  Manufactured = about 1957.  The name decal says kimballette?? It was 169 cents = flat.  I did a pitch raise and tune, and all went well.  The problem is that = the keys bottom out on the front rail felts before achieving let off. =  The dip is only about 6 mm.   I removed the keys and cleaned and = vacuumed, and also removed the key slip to measure the key height.  The front = rail of the key frame stands above the key bed some 3 or 4 MM.  This is = even across the front of the front rail key frame.  The balance rail = seems to be correct and bedded on the key bed.  The balance rail felts are = good, and appear to be sufficient in thickness.  The front  rail = that is high is consistent in being off of the key bed from bass end of the = piano to the treble.  There is dirt and trash between the rail and the key = bed that I did not try to clean out as I would have had to remove the key frame = to get to it.  There appears to be some sort of spacer on a couple of the = screws that hold down the key frame which seems to be there specifically to = keep the front rail spaced as it is.  It does not appear that the frame or = key bed is warped.  The piano has not been worked on previously so I = don’t think the problem is a former job gone bad.<o:p></o:p>  </f= ont><o:p></o:p> The piano was left in a garage for the past several years, and now has been = given to the present owner.  The finish is in good shape, and the strings = are clean and tuned up well, the pins are nice and tight.  The balance = rail and front rail felts are good as is the back cloth.  The keys are = not warped. <o:p></o:p>  </f= ont><o:p></o:p> Everything looks like it would work well if I just removed the key frame, clean = underneath and replace it so that it is flat to the keybed.  Then the keys = should have proper dip, even if some adjustment with felts needs to be = done.  Should I just put in thicker balance rail felts to achieve the proper = dip????<o:p></o:p>  </f= ont><o:p></o:p> What am I missing?????  Does anyone have a suggestion as to why this piano = would have this type of problem.  Your thoughts would be gratefully = accepted.<o:p></o:p>  </f= ont><o:p></o:p> I have a couple of weeks to figure it out while the owner is on a trip.  I = am to go back to work on the piano at the end of = April…<o:p></o:p>  </f= ont><o:p></o:p> Ed Carwithen<o:p></o:p> PTG associate<o:p></o:p> <st1:place = w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">John Day</st1:City>, <st1:State = w:st="on">OR</st1:State></st1:place><o:p></o:p>  </f= ont><o:p></o:p>  </f= ont><o:p></o:p> </div> </body> </html>