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<DIV>
<DIV> <FONT size=3> Terry, David</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> My procedure is similar. I locate the=
bolt
holes thru the bosses & mark the board with a Forster bit. I w=
ith
the plat removed I drill small pilot holes in approx. the same place I
drill for the acoustic dowels later. No filling. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> I use a bar clamp and block to hold the board tig=
ht, as
close to the plate as possible in the back bass corner. I use a piece of squ=
are
rib stock with blocks & clamps on the long side. On the belly I relocate=
the
original damper guide rail screw holes & use the rails to hold the front=
down. This way there are no obstructions for my bearing string. </FONT></DIV=
>
<DIV><FONT size=3> At this point my treble soundboard trim cap is alr=
eady
glued & screw holes relocated. I use this for my dry fit & I am VERY=
careful to get this entire corner snugly down as tight possible. I also put =
two
screws in the board at the treble corner board trim piece to further insure =
that
this spot is tight. Otherwise one will cut the bridge cap height to sh=
ort
every time. I guarantee it. The trim cover the holes later. One screw is
adjacent to the very end of the bridge the other spaced about 3 inches
back.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> The plate is then set in on its nose bolts =
&
I attach it to the flange with a screw on either side of each strut & on=
e
top and bottom. Usually about 8 screws. I use the nose bolts to set my eleva=
tion
so the rear plate just sits on my 1/8 wedge.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> If there is a treble bell bolt this goes in as we=
ll. I
usually put the plate elevation so the rear bolt boss is on approx. 1/8 inch=
wedge. I clamp this down with a block & clamp. The nose caps go on at th=
is
point & lock in place.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> I then use wedges to pre stress my board, cut the=
notches in the bridge top.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> This set up leave a lot of room to work.</FONT></=
DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
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style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000080 size=
=2>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">On the soundboa=
rd
that I’m currently doing I’ve secured the board to the rim=
with screws and
cardboard washers—as in front rail punchings.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>A few small screws (#8 x 1 =
” and they
have that built in washer at the head) into the rim in the area under the
plate about every 12 – 18” or so (I can’t remember=
the exact spacing), and a
clamping block on the straight side and the cutoff area where the plate is=
not
in the way.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>I drill the hol=
e
through the panel large enough so that the screw is not actually cutting o=
r
binding in the panel, only in the rim. <SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Once the board is in the holes ca=
n be
filled and won’t show anyway since they are under the plate.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:=
p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<DIV>
<P><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; mso-no-proof: yes">David
Love<BR></SPAN></FONT><st1:PersonName><FONT color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; mso-no-proof: yes">davidlovepianos@=
comcast.net</SPAN></FONT></st1:PersonName><FONT
color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; mso-no-proof: yes">
</SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10"=
>Erwins Pianos
Restorations <BR>4721 Parker Rd.<BR>Modesto, Ca 95357<BR>209-577-8397<BR>Reb=
uilt
Steinway , Mason &Hamlin
Sales<BR>www.Erwinspiano.com</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>