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<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Guy, Bob, Terry, Ron, Alan, Isaac, Dave (hope I didn't forget anyone)</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Thanks for all the great input. I think I have a plan now. If I get the job, I'll be removing the action in my shop, not in her living room. First, double checking the various heights, and things like lyre bolts and glides that could be elevating the action. Second, inspecting the stretcher-rim junction for evidence of attachment-detachment method, especially the underneath side where I might find an angled screw, or a mortise. Third, rigging some means for pressing the stretcher upwards, possibly in combination with some means for spreading the rim outwards to relieve pressure on the ends of the stretcher. Again, thanks all for your experience and creativity, and I'll let y'all know how it comes out, if I get the job.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Mike</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV>PS Terry, by "violin bridge" I assume you refer to the long bridge with the deeply cut-away cross section. What kind of dangers lurk within? </DIV>
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<DIV>Mike & Jane Spalding</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:spalding48@earthlink.net">spalding48@earthlink.net</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=nicho@zianet.com href="mailto:nicho@zianet.com">Nichols</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 5/28/2003 12:17:27 PM </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: captured action</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2>Hey Michael,<BR> Gonna agree with Bob on this one. IF (big if) the stretcher "hangs down" in front of the block enough to account for the height difference needed, then the stretcher comes off. I've seen several of these. (Don't remember an Estey, though. Maybe....) Upward is quite common, on tenon-type pieces mounted to the rim. Some angled, like some upright fallboard assemblies, but most of the more modern (post 1900) ones are just straight glides. There's not much room for a mallet, but you can slide the action out a little, to get the end glides or key frame somewhat exposed right under the stretcher. That will give you a nice contact point through to the keybed. A long pry bar, rocker, or small J-bar will do the job quickly. The trick is to put the fulcrum point on the head of a glide bolt. Use a block or two, or a short piece of pipe. Get the contact point of the lever as close to the end as possible, and keep the lever as!
parallel to the stretcher as possible. You'll have to trade ends a couple of times. If you can't move the action enough or position your lever on a solid point, then use a larger block to spread the pressure around on the balance rail pins. You can slip a shim under the front of the end keys to keep them depressing, if you wish. Removing the up-stop rail, if there is one, may help. You really don't need a huge area, you just need to have a lot more force than you can get with a mallet. Worst case, you can run a 4X4 stretcher across from rim to rim, and use clamps. Keep them as square as possible, as they can twist the stretcher off of there easily, glides and all. A little lube on the inside face of the rim above and around the stretcher won't hurt, and may prevent marring the finish. A shot of furniture polish or lemon oil works fine. When re-installing, consider a light sanding of the ends of the stretcher, and a bit of TFL-50, or Teflon powder, or soapstone, or.... y'kno!
w.<BR><BR>Have fun,<BR>Guy Nichols, RPT<BR>Ft. Stinkin' Desert, NM<BR><BR><BR>At 12:41 AM 5/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite"><FONT size=2>In a message dated 5/27/2003 8:33:44 PM Pacific Standard Time, spalding48@earthlink.net writes:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite">All pedals operated satisfactorily, lots of wood-on-dirty-wood sound when the shift is operated. Looked like it was sitting right down on the bed.</FONT> </BLOCKQUOTE><BR><FONT size=2>Hmmph. Bummer. Okay, back to the stretcher. Most of them are roughly even with the bottom of the pinblock. If this one isn't, that makes me think it wants to come out. I once worked on an 8+ foot Starr (!) piano that had such a stretcher. The ends were slotted, and the slots slipped over keys screwed to the arms. We had to give it a pretty good whomp (upward) with the rubber mallet in order to disengage it. Pretty scary the first time, but nothing else would do....<BR>Bob D</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>