<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV>Bill,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Actually, you only need to take off about .030" on average to equal = the ivory thickness.  In fact, you can take off less, get a cleaner = cut, go faster, and still not run into regulation problems (maybe about = .020").  The only thing you have to watch out for is not leaving so much of an = overall key thickness that you have to start messing with the nameboard strip/ = fallboard height.  You CAN run into regulation problems if you take off too = much (voice of experience speaking).</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Randy Rush, RPT</DIV> <DIV>Seattle</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:53:55 EDT<BR>From: <A href="mailto:Bdshull@AOL.COM">Bdshull@AOL.COM</A><BR>Subject: Re: = Planer and keytops<BR><BR>In a message dated 10/12/01 5:14:48 PM Pacific Daylight = Time, <BR><A href="mailto:cgregg@cadvision.com">cgregg@cadvision.com</A> writes:<BR><BR><< Also, I don't think it is important to take away = a lot of the surface of <BR>the key top.  I remove the key top and then = use the planer to cleanoff old <BR>glue and get a clean, even, and square = surface.  >><BR><BR>Chris,<BR><BR><<<Don't you want to achieve the = same overall height as with original keytop?  <BR>That could mean = removal of .040-.050" of wood if the original was ivory.  Any <BR>different = dimension then the original and you run into regulation problems.<BR><BR>Bill Shull<BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>