<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> <html> <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> Go ahead, ask me how I found out. Better yet don't Grrrrrrrrrrrr. <p>Greg <p>Tom Servinsky wrote: <blockquote TYPE=CITE> <font size=-1>Greg,</font><font size=-1>That was one of reasons for the inquiry. The laminate router bit will follow the key nicely. However, as you have pointed out, when key lead weights cause irregularities in the key itself, that will transfer to your beautiful new keytop.</font><font size=-1>Tom Servinsky,RPT</font> <blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----</div> <div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net" title="gnewell@ameritech.net">Greg Newell</a></div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title="pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a></div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, October 14, 2001 11:17 AM</div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Subject:</b> Re: Keytop routing techniques</div>  And further more ... how do you route the long edge if it is riddled with recessed weights. Nothing for the router bit bearing to ride on you know. Thanks for the topic Tom. <p>Greg <p>Tom Servinsky wrote: <blockquote TYPE="CITE"><style></style> <font size=-1>List,Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I just started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine.  I acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine.The question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best way to route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with guide and some use a sanding disc.What's the consensus out there?Also what is the keytop cement of choice.  I was introduced to using acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity consistently.  Within 30 seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere near the surface of the key or the finish will be marred.So bring it on.  Would be interested in your comments on learning the tricks of the trade.Tom Servinsky,RPT</font> <blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----</div> <div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" title="jonpage2001@mediaone.net">Jon Page</a></div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title="pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a></div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:20 PM</div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Subject:</b> Re: Planer and keytops</div>  <font size=+0>At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote:</font> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font size=+0>For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears rotary planer in a</font> <br><font size=+0>radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide cutters, while</font> <br><font size=+0>the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand sideways forces</font> <br><font size=+0>much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean 200...). Most</font> <br><font size=+0>RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered.</font> <p><font size=+0>Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear out I</font> <br><font size=+0>grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing clearance</font> <br><font size=+0>by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to help. Feed slow,</font> <br><font size=+0>should work fine.</font> <p><font size=+0>Adjustable parallels for set up.</font> <p><font size=+0>> electric planer</font> <p><font size=+0>Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as such, there's so</font> <br><font size=+0>little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds to</font> <br><font size=+0>invite disaster.</font> <br><font size=+0>Clark</font></blockquote> <p><br>What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the kerf it leaves at the end of the plastic. <br>A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only enough material for the new keytop <br>to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job. <p>Regards, <br>  <p><font size=+0>Jon Page,   piano technician</font> <br><font size=+0>Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.</font> <br><font size=+0><a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:</a>jonpage2001<a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">@mediaone.net</a></font> <br><font size=+0><a href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</a></font> <br><font size=+0>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</font></blockquote> </blockquote> -- <br>Greg Newell <br><a href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</a> <br> </blockquote> </blockquote> <p>-- <br>Greg Newell <br><A HREF="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</A> <br>  </body> </html>