<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" = xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" = xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=US-ASCII"> <meta name=ProgId content=Word.Document> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <meta name=Originator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <link rel=File-List href="cid:filelist.xml@01C559EF.6E7EB2A0"> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple = style='tab-interval:.5in' id="role_body" bottomMargin=7 leftmargin=7 topmargin=7 rightMargin=7> <div class=Section1> I like the clear = coat of epoxy on the bridge top because it helps solidify the cap and harden it = further and I have to worry less about the brittleness or fragility of the = wood.  There probably is an ideal = angle at which to cut the notch that gives enough guarantee of clearance for the = string even with a little compression on the bridge top and doesn’t = undermine the strength at the edge.  = I prefer to err on the side of a little to steep than too shallow.  Once you get away from the = notch edge itself, I’m not sure how much it matters except for = appearance.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I use the final coat as a sealer = coat as well.  I suppose I could = brush on a coat of sanding sealer (which would be my first choice) in the notches = first, but I don’t.    I’ve gotten away = from using shellac.  In the past I = used it underneath the varnish coat on the soundboards and even on the damper = guide rails.  But shellac out of = the can is unreliable and making it up from flakes, filtering it, etc., just = takes more time than I want to give it.  I’ve gone to lacquer on the soundboard, bridge body and top, damper guide = rails.  It’s fast, easy and dries = hard and I don’t have to worry about tiptoeing around the shop for 8 hours = trying not to stir up the dust.  =  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> David Love <st1:PersonName>davidlovepianos@comcast.net</f= ont></st1:PersonName> = <o:p></o:p> </div> -----Original = Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of <st1:PersonName>Erwinspiano@aol.com<= /font></st1:PersonName> Sent: Monday, May 16, = 2005 7:41 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: Sanding = bridge top <o:p> </o:p> <div>   &nbs= p;David<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   I see that you said this but it almost slipped by me. It's early =  If you have much sanding to do I find most often I then need to re-notch all or = part of the bridge to clean up the terminations & sometimes it means = quite a bit of re-notching . <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>    With old dry bridge tops it's  very critical to keep your chisel = razor sharp so you can peel the very least amount of wood from the notch. I'm = a big believer that  one should leave as much wood on top of the bridge = as possible for strength & integrity.<o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid blue = 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> The further procedure I now use is = to then coat the bridge top with clear coat epoxy and lightly swab the holes = using a toothpick.  After it’s cured, sand back the epoxy with 220 and then 400 paper.  Recut the = notches.  With the appropriate bridge pin = drill, drill out the holes again—slowly and carefully being careful about = the angle.  Insert the new pins = with just a touch of epoxy (very slow cure type) and wipe off the = excess.  When cured, spray the bridge cap with a = light coat of satin lacquer (I do it out of a can as it’s easier to control a = light coat).  Looks great and the = epoxy hardens the surface = nicely.<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <div>   David<o:p></o:p></span= > </div> <div>    Does this suffice as a sealer coat for the notches too or are you painting something in the notches first. We always brush in a coat of = shellac & then a coat or two of gloss lacquer. Looks very = tidy.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   Dale Erwin<o:p></o:p></span= > </div>  <o:p></o:p> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid blue = 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <o:p> </o:p> <div> David Love <st1:PersonName>davidlovep= ianos@comcast.net</st1:PersonName> <o:p></o:p> </div> </blockquote> <div>  <o:p></o:p= > </div> </div> </body> </html>