<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE> <P>We have a customer who wants to sell his Yamaha CF dating from about 1977.  </P> <P>To be a really fine concert piano, it will need new action parts, regulation and restringing.  (The pins are fine, but the bass strings have lost tone and there is something spilled on some of the treble strings, making them somewhat rusty in places.)</P> <P>Any suggestions about it's current value and what it would take to do the work?</P> <P>Thanks for any help,</P> <P>Diane<BR><BR></P></DIV><BR><BR><BR>Diane Hofstetter <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>From: Thomas Cole <tcole@cruzio.com> <DIV></DIV>>Reply-To: tcole@cruzio.com, Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> <DIV></DIV>>To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> <DIV></DIV>>Subject: Re: Acrilykey vs glue wafers <DIV></DIV>>Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2005 10:57:15 -0800 <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>Does anybody know why glue wafers are used, other than providing a <DIV></DIV>>white underlayment? Are they a buffer between the brittle ivory and <DIV></DIV>>expanding/contracting keystick? <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>Tom Cole <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>Joe Garrett wrote: <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>>Acrilykey is not a "glue"! Itr will break down w/age and impact. <DIV></DIV>>>Actually, so will glue wafers! The best glue to use for replacing <DIV></DIV>>>Ivory, is PVC-E that has a lot of Titanium Dioxide, (ultra fine), <DIV></DIV>>>added for the "whitening" effect. <DIV></DIV>>>Best Regards, <DIV></DIV>>>Joe Garrett, R.P.T. <DIV></DIV>>>Captain, Tool Police <DIV></DIV>>>Squares R I <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV></div></html>