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<DIV>Hi Bob,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Yes, the weights are SW, and not head weight. =
Although my
hammers are a bit heavy, they're not really *that* heavy. For =
the
most part, they're in the 3/4 medium to top medium range. I do =
like a
heavier hammer, as it seems to give me more dynamic control. If I =
had the
strength to handle them, I'd probably want even heavier hammers still -- =
perhaps
no higher than Stanwood 10s. In contrast, I can't stand
playing pianos that have light hammers. Heavy works -- at =
least for
me. These hammers are only slightly heavier than the hammers =
I
already have. As truly, truly horrible as my old hammers are, I do =
like
the "feel" of their weight. Everything else in the action seems =
fine, and
I won't be doing any reconfigurations (e.g. moving the capstans). =
Oh, yes,
the new shanks do have just a tad (.5 mm) longer a knuckle placement =
(18, vs.
17.5 mm), so that will decrease the new SWR ever-so-slightly, =
compensating
somewhat for the ever-so-slightly higher SW.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I've already had these hammers hung and shaped. The job =
was done
quite expertly! Of course I can tweak the weight here and there =
with the
removal of a bit of extra molding. I don't want to touch the =
checking
surfaces, though, as they're very nicely shaped. I'll probably =
remove a
bit from the sides of the tails, and perhaps just a shade from the cove
side. For those hammers that need a pinch more weight, I'll =
probably use a
bit of lead, per some of the suggestions I've received.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>But since this will all be put off until after I see how the =
hammers feel
and sound, it's all quite a bit of arm waving right now. If the =
hammers
are really too heavy, which I highly doubt, I can always even their =
weights
out towards the lower end of the jags in the SW curve. I'll know =
more,
once my keyframe returns home from its little trip to the spa, and I can =
put
some of these pretty hammers into motion! ;-)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Peace,</DIV>
<DIV>Sarah</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=BobDavis88@aol.com
href="mailto:BobDavis88@aol.com">BobDavis88@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, August 22, 2004 =
11:56
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: SW heresy?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Hello Sarah,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I was looking over your graph. This is strike weight, right? Not =
head
weight? Even so, it looks like it might be unnecessarily porky for a =
Steinway
clone. What kind of hammers are they, and have the sides been tapered? =
Head to
tail, or just tails? Has any additional coving been done?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As others have mentioned, doing your own tapering with a table =
saw jig
like the Spurlock goes a long way toward evening up (and reducing) =
weight. If
they are 11 mm wide, they may not need to be, which you can check =
against the
string spacing. If they do need to be as wide as whatever they are, =
you can
just start the taper at that width. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>After tapering, I weigh each head before coving, and can make a =
0.1 -
0.2 gram evening-out adjustment in the weight by varying the =
cove,
without having it show. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I think you are wise to put off final adjustments until you can =
put some
hammers in the piano and see what kind of weight the action wants, as =
well as
what kind of sound you're getting.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob Davis</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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