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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Step back in time.......</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><BR><B><?color><?param =
0000,0000,0000>From: <?/color></B>Horace Greeley <<A
=
href="mailto:hgreeley@stanford.edu">hgreeley@stanford.edu</A>><BR><B=
><?color><?param 0000,0000,0000>Date:
<?/color></B>August 31, 2004 10:20:40 PM CDT<BR><B><?color><?param =
0000,0000,0000>To: <?/color></B>Pianotech <<A
=
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>><BR><B><?color=
><?param 0000,0000,0000>Subject:
<?/color>Re: Big hammers<BR></B><BR><BR><BR>Barb - I would be more =
concerned
about overall action geometry that the size of the hammers at this
point. Those knuckles look a bit close to the flange =
pin. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>They are close. At first I =
thought I measured
16 mm, but then I got out my caliper (after my trip to the store to buy =
a new
battery for it, of course)--they're 15.5 mm. I was told this
rebuilding is about 10 years old. The piano is from =
1975.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> Also, looking at the backchecks, this is a pre-'87 =
instrument (for
_me_, this is a GOOD THING!...largely because of the significantly =
larger
range of regulation possible...long subject and I am not looking to =
start a
discussion)...being of that vintage, you are also going to want to =
check not
only action spread, but also deck height from the keybed to the CP of =
each of
the whippen and hammer flanges. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>OK, I can do that, but does it make any difference that these are =
10 year
old (or so) Renner parts that aren't working so well at the =
moment? Action
spread is 4.50". I just have the stack home with me now. Is =
there a
"best way" to measure from the keybed to the CP of the whippen and =
hammer
flanges?</DIV>
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<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Try to carefully assess what was actually done at the factory, =
and what
has been done since then...looking especially to see if there has been =
a
change in the material under the back rail cloth. Usually, this =
would
have had a layer of red key felt, often on top of one or (sometimes, =
but not
often) two layers of what amounts to manila card stock (this latter =
usually
dark brown in color). </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The back rail felt is =
original.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Also, check to see when/if anyone has replaced the balance rail =
pivots;
and/or the front rail (felt) punchings. etc.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I believe that balance rail pivots are =
original,
but could you describe what the originals looked like? I doubt the =
front
rail punchings are original.</FONT><BR><BR>> In other words, before =
doing
_anything_ try to get a very solid idea of what it is you are looking =
at.
Then, work </DIV>
<DIV>> backwards. As someone (Andre? Isaac? sorry) noted, =
sometimes (even often) "just" a good, solid regulation will </DIV>
<DIV>> do more for tone and projection than even many technicians =
will
believe.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Currently, on note 1 the Down =
weight was 64
and Up weight, 33. Using the Standwood measurements the balance =
weight
is way too high (48.5) and so is the Strike Balance ratio =
(6.36). (I
don't plan on using spring assisted whippens--the jury is still =
out on
those with me--I've gotten too many mixed reviews). When I put on =
a New
York Style 17 mm shank and did a quick regulation the DW dropped to 56 =
and UW to
28 (still using the Renner whip--which measures out to match the drawing =
of the
Hamburg style whip in the Steinway manual--from 1992) and the other =
numbers
(Balance weight and Strike balance ratio) got a lot closer to what I've =
read is
acceptable (and it certainly felt a lot better!). I'll test =
a few
more notes on Friday to make sure that regulation is really =
possible and to
make sure my initial results weren't just wishful =
thinking. Are there
any problems combining Renner whips with Steinway style =
shanks?
Purists or distributors need not reply. Just trying to keep this a =
low-budget fix-up--but I'll do what is necessary, of =
course.</FONT><BR><BR>>
So, after all that, those look like S&S hammers; and, from what =
little can
be seen of them, they look as if they are </DIV>
<DIV>> fairly well molded and shaped...so, look elsewhere before =
simply
throwing them out and starting elsewhere.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The hammers are going to work. =
When I first
heard them, they sounded just about as nasty and glassy as you =
could
imagine, but now they have that nice broad, gutsy tone--producing a
nice variety of tone color as they progress from soft to hard =
blows.
The strike weights run from 12.5 - 6.5. A friend tells me that's a =
little
heavy, but I'm inclined to leave them they way they are--for now,
anyway.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm =
looking forward
to what everyone has to say.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Barbara Richmond</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>PS </FONT>At 12:23 PM =
8/31/04, Ric
wrote:<BR><BR>> Jimminees Chrasmus.... look at those knuckle cores... =
that
HAD to be done willfully... .. </DIV>
<DIV>> or maybe its just the picture is a bit distorted...<BR>> =
RicB</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The picture is inaccurate. The =
knuckle is
crooked but not bent. Does that make sense?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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