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<DIV><SPAN class=109344812-28022003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I used
to do it this way. One thing you MUST be careful with though: If your keys are
even a little warped, you could end up with slanted keys. I prefer to use the
ratary planer in the press drill and support only the covered part of the key
since the warping usually occurs at the angled part of the
key.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=109344812-28022003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Marcel
Carey, RPT</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
[mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]<B>On Behalf Of
</B>PetersRPT@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> 27 février, 2003 23:08<BR><B>To:</B>
pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Keytop
Replacement<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT lang=0
face=Arial size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF">I have a very simple way to trim the wood
off of the key prior to installing plastic keytops. My router is
outfitted with a set of blocks, which act as skis. The tabletop is a
very smooth and flat particle board type of material. Clamp the
key to the table using a spring clamp, move the router back and forth over the
top of the key a couple of times, and you're done. Maybe it's just
me, but I have had trouble with any method that required moving the key.
I couldn't move the key smoothly enough to consistently get a level surface.
This way the key is held stationary, and the router skims over the
top. I have only done one set this way to date, but it seemed to
work well.<BR><BR>Roy Peters</FONT> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>