<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Ron Nossaman = wrote:</EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM></EM></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Actually, no, it doesn't make sense = at all to me. </EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM></EM></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Oh geezzz. I'm a-gonner get = hammered!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM></EM></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>I can see the <BR>sense in the reaming/burnishing thing, except that the burnishing <BR>mileage changes = constantly as the pin fills up with flanges. Where's <BR>the uniformity = there? </EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><EM><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>You can either slide the flange once = over an 18-inch length, or three times over six inches. Pretty = uniform.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>But then it gets to assembling the = shank <BR>(whatever) and flange, and you lose me altogether. As difficult as = <BR>it often is to push a pin through a birdseye, how is this done with <BR>a = long pin? </EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hmmmm. Give me a week or so and I'll = report back. I have done this before, but it has been a couple years.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Also, how does pushing the assembly = down the length of a <BR>long pin affect that fit? </EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM></EM></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ditto as above.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Also, since both ends of the pin = have been <BR>clipped with this installation process, how can you get the pin out <BR>someday for another level of repinning without screwing up the = <BR>birdseye? </EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I remember in the class this question = came up. Maybe if you use the $287 Renner wire nippers you get a nice smooth cut. = I suppose some experimentation is in order here.....</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>There may be entire worlds I'm not = seeing here, but this <BR>method strikes me as having a lot more built in = inconsistencies and <BR>problems than the backward and unenlightened way we short-pinners <BR>struggle with, but then I'm sort of slow sometimes.</EM> = </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Could be. I know that is how Joel = Rappaport taught the class (or at least as close to it as my recollection, class handout = and notes will allow).</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> </DIV></FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Greg Graham = wrote:<BR></EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>The idea was that an entire rail of = parts could be<BR>rebushed efficiently by using the Renner pre-glued<BR>cloth = (Renner part 1049, get six strips per rail),<BR>pulling the cloth thru the bushing, = pulling on the<BR>next part and leaving 1/16th inch between parts until<BR>the = cloth is full.  Cut the cloth flush with the left<BR>side of each part to = separate them, and slide them on<BR>the shrink pins.  Start the pins by = hand, then use<BR>pliers to pull the pin.  The first 3 inches of the = pin<BR>must be tapered and roughened (by you) to ream the<BR>bushing to size.  = Polish the pins before you start<BR>sliding on bushings, so your first parts don't = end up<BR>full of tarnish gunk.  Fill up the pins with parts. <BR>It = takes three pins to do an entire rail of parts.  <BR><BR>Soak the = pre-glued cloth with an equal mix of alcohol<BR>and water to activate the glue and size = the wool. <BR>Leave them overnight to dry.  They will be very = loose<BR>on the pin when done.  Slide them off, trim the excess<BR>bushing cloth, = and re-pin as normal with regular pins.<BR> <BR>Ken says to use a = shrink pin one size smaller than<BR>your new center pin, or about the same size as the<BR>original pins you took out, since you often choose a<BR>new pin = about .001" or .025mm larger than what was in<BR>the birdseye = originally.  </EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM></EM></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This is all consistent with my = understanding of the method.<BR><BR><EM>This was a good class, and included many more tips on<BR>production-efficiency pinning, when to do it or when<BR>to buy new = parts instead, etc.  The point of the long<BR>pins was simply to keep = speed up, individual pin<BR>handling/reaming/burnishing down.  He certainly didn't<BR>recommend using the long pins to assemble the = finished<BR>parts.  Sliding a birdseye down a two foot pin doesn't<BR>sound like a good idea = to me, but that's my LEHO<BR>(limited experience humble opinion). </EM></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM></EM></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm sure Joel Rappaport slid the whole = assembly down the length of wire. He did not employ the use of the short pins at = all. I know I've done it before, but its been a long time. I'll be into = the repinning phase of this action within the next week or so. I'll try it = with the long pins and with the short pins and report back. Ya'll've got me = curious now. I would have to agree that there doesn't seem to be any advantage to = doing the actual pinning with the long pins.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</DIV> <DIV><BR><BR><BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>