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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>From <A
href="http://www.westsystem.com/">http://www.westsystem.com/</A> :=
This
site really has tons and tons of excellent info on epoxy =
use.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>
<P align=left><FONT face=Arial>Adhesive Fillers vs. Fairing =
Fillers</FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Arial>Fillers are used to thicken the basic =
resin/hardener mixture for specific applications. Each filler possesses =
a unique
set of physical characteristics, but they can be generally categorized =
as either
Adhesive (high-density) or Fairing (low-density).<BR>Adhesive filler =
mixtures
cure to a strong, hard-to-sand plastic useful in structural applications =
like
bonding, filleting and hardware bonding.</FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Arial>Fairing filler mixtures cure to =
light, easily
sandable material that is generally used for cosmetic or surface =
applications
like shaping, filling or fairing.<BR><BR>ADHESIVE FILLERS<BR><BR>403
Microfibers<BR>403 Microfibers, a fine fiber blend, is used as a =
thickening
additive with resin/hardener to create a multi-purpose adhesive, =
especially for
bonding wood. Epoxy thickened with microfibers has good gap-filling =
qualities
while retaining excellent wetting/penetrating capability. Color:
off-white.<BR><BR>404 High-Density Filler<BR>404 High-Density filler is =
a
thickening additive developed for maximum physical properties in =
hardware
bonding where high-cyclic loads are anticipated. It can also be used for =
filleting and gap filling where maximum strength is necessary. Color:
off-white.<BR><BR>405 Filleting Blend<BR>This strong, wood-toned filler =
is good
for use in glue joints and fillets on naturally finished wood. It mixes =
easily
with epoxy and lets you create fillets that are smooth and require =
little
sanding. Its color is a consistent brown, so 405 can be used to modify =
the shade
of other WEST SYSTEM fillers.<BR><BR>406 Colloidal Silica<BR>406 =
Colloidal
Silica is a thickening additive used to control the viscosity of the =
epoxy and
prevent epoxy runoff in vertical and overhead joints. 406 is a very =
strong
filler that creates a smooth mixture, ideal for general bonding and =
filleting.
It is also our most versatile filler. Often used in combination with =
other
fillers, it can be used to improve the improve strength, abrasion =
resistance,
and consistency of fairing compounds, resulting in a tougher, smoother =
surface.
Color: off-white. <BR><BR>FAIRING FILLERS<BR><BR>407 Low-Density =
Filler<BR>407
Low-Density filler is a blended microballoon-based filler used to make =
fairing
putties that are easy to sand or carve. Reasonably strong on a
strength-to-weight basis. Cures to a dark red/brown color.<BR><BR>410
MicrolightTM<BR>410 MicrolightTM is the ideal low-density filler for =
creating a
light, easily-worked fairing compound especially suited for fairing =
large areas.
Microlight mixes with greater ease than 407 Low-Density filler or =
microballoons
and is approximately 30% easier to sand. It feathers to a fine edge and =
is also
more economical for large fairing jobs. Not recommended under dark paint =
or
other surfaces subject to high temperatures. Cures to a tan
color.</FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>From: "Isaac OLEG" <</FONT><A
href="mailto:oleg-i@noos.fr"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>oleg-i@noos.fr</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>To: <</FONT><A
href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>davidlovepianos@earthlink.net</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>>;
"Pianotech" <</FONT><A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>pianotech@ptg.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 6:27 =
PM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Subject: RE: Plugging capstan
holes</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><BR><FONT size=2></FONT></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>> Hi Dave, what is Microlite ?<BR>> <BR>> Thanks for =
your
detailed explanations, it is interesting.<BR>> <BR>> Are some =
epoxy
quality more easy to drill and tap than others, or is<BR>> it mostly =
the
added powder that helps the final material to be easy to<BR>> work =
with
?<BR>> <BR>> I have bought along the grain dowels from a wood =
merchant.
these are<BR>> used to plug knot holes in wooden floors. They are not =
very
round, but<BR>> suitable from 8 to 12 mm , in hard woods.<BR>> =
<BR>>
But the epoxy method seem fine indeed.<BR>> <BR>> best =
regards.<BR>>
<BR>> Isaac OLEG<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> -----Message
d'origine-----<BR>> De : </FONT><A
href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>
[mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la<BR>> part de David =
Love<BR>>
Envoye : mercredi 19 mai 2004 23:26<BR>> A : Pianotech<BR>> Objet =
: RE:
Plugging capstan holes<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> I fill the entire hole =
with
epoxy. West system and a generaous amount<BR>> of<BR>> =
microlite
(410). Put it in a glue syringe and fill them up. I =
insert<BR>>
the<BR>> syringe all the way to the bottom and back it out as squeeze =
to
get<BR>> the<BR>> stuff to the bottom of the hole. The top =
usually
sags a bit and so<BR>> you<BR>> need to go over it a couple of =
times
within, usually, about 30<BR>> minutes.<BR>> Even then the stuff =
will
eventuall sag a bit leaving a slight<BR>> indentation.<BR>> I've =
dealt
with this two ways and I'm not really sure which I prefer,<BR>> =
but<BR>>
both work. First, let them sag to slightly below key level.
After<BR>> the<BR>> epoxy starts to set up--the slow set stuff =
will harden
quite slowly<BR>> but<BR>> reaches a point where it will not sag
anymore--I mix up another batch<BR>> using<BR>> both microlite and =
colloidal silica (406). Mix it to the consistency<BR>> =
of<BR>>
whipped butter or mashed potatoes and then take an artists =
palette<BR>>
knife<BR>> and fill in the small indentation flush to the key =
top. When
it all<BR>> hardens sand smooth with an orbital sander right in the =
key
frame.<BR>> You can<BR>> block the key ends to hold them more
steady. The other method<BR>> involves<BR>> adding a bit =
more of the
original batch out of the syringe as it<BR>> starts to<BR>> =
thicken so
that it sets up higher than the top of the key stick.<BR>> Before =
it<BR>>
totally hardens trim with a sharp chisel (wax it a bit first to =
keep<BR>>
it<BR>> from sticking) or a sharp japanese knife. Clean up with =
an
orbital<BR>> sander.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> I don't like using =
dowels to
plug the holes because I don't like<BR>> drilling<BR>> and =
screwing
capstans into the endgrain of a dowel. You can, as some<BR>>
do,<BR>> cut plugs out of old keys, drill the hole larger to cover
the<BR>> coutersink,<BR>> plug and trim. I find that it =
takes too
long. The epoxy holds the<BR>> capstan<BR>> just fine and, =
once
hardened, drills and taps without any problems.<BR>> <BR>> =
BTW make
sure that the old capstan holes aren't drilled all the way<BR>> =
through the
key. Yep, I did find that out the hard way. Thought =
I'd<BR>>
entered the Twilight Zone with a capstan hole that just never =
seemed<BR>>
to<BR>> want to fill up....imagine if you will..<BR>> <BR>> =
David
Love<BR>> </FONT><A =
href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net"><FONT
face=Arial size=2>davidlovepianos@earthlink.net</FONT></A><BR><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>> <BR>> <BR>> > [Original Message]<BR>> > =
From: Phillip
Ford <</FONT><A href="mailto:fordpiano@earthlink.net"><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>fordpiano@earthlink.net</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>><BR>>
> To: <</FONT><A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>pianotech@ptg.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>><BR>> >
Date: 5/19/2004 11:39:28 AM<BR>> > Subject: Plugging capstan =
holes<BR>>
><BR>> > Would anyone care to offer some advice on plugging =
capstan
holes?<BR>> They<BR>> are often countersunk, so if you glue in a =
dowel
that's level with the<BR>> top<BR>> of the key there will be a gap =
or open
ring around the dowel. If you<BR>> happen to be drilling near =
this area
it makes the bit wander. If you<BR>> epoxy<BR>> in a dowel =
and fill
in the gap with epoxy it's pretty hard to level<BR>> them<BR>> =
until the
epoxy hardens. So you essentially have to leave the dowel<BR>> =
sticking
out a bit and the epoxy mounded up a bit. This means a lot<BR>> =
of<BR>> sanding or filing after the epoxy hardens. My current =
modus
operandi<BR>> is to<BR>> glue in a dowel that's a bit shorter than =
the
hole and punch it in so<BR>> that<BR>> it's a little below the top =
of the
key. I then fill in the divot with<BR>> epoxy and level with a =
razor
blade before the epoxy sets. Other<BR>> ideas?<BR>> Does =
anyone fill
in the entire hole with epoxy?<BR>> ><BR>> > Phi =
Ford<BR>>
><BR>> > =
_______________________________________________<BR>> >
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href="https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives"><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives</FONT></A><BR><FON=
T
face=Arial size=2>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
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info:
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face=Arial size=2>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
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