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<DIV>That is a tough situation. Obviously the work should be done right =
- taken
apart and done so that it will work well for at least 25 years. Any =
piano that
is sold as being "reconditioned" suggests that all the things not right =
have
been fixed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I read a response that suggested to run, not walk away from that =
job. In
theory, I agree, although I temper that with knowing that it is not =
always easy
to walk away from a job. However, I think it is clear that you can =
expect more
of this in the future from your employer. I hate that crap.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have the luxury of making stupid, shortsighted commitments =
to
clients, realizing that the piano actually needs more work, and then =
just doing
the additional work without charge because I should have known and it is =
the
only way to make the piano right. I have this luxury because I work for =
myself.
Such a luxury does not often exist when working at a dealer (or =
something of
that sort).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Someone else made a post suggesting that you do the repair as =
dictated
by your employer, but to make a clear record of which flanges you
glued/screwed, etc. That is probably good advice. Do as good a repair as =
possible without getting your boss on your back. While at the same time, =
think
seriously about looking for another job (if this type of approach is
common-place) or setting out on your own.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I could NEVER work for anyone else EVER again (except of course for =
my
piano clients!!! - I love 'em!!!). ARG!!!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Hey, I grew up in St. Clair Shores. Where are you in the =
Detroit/Windsor
area?</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=clark@evola.com href="mailto:clark@evola.com">Clark =
Sprague</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 17, 2001 =
5:01
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Sohmer Grand</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>List: I have been assigned to =
"recondition"
for sale a Sohmer Grand, serial #30613, a 5'10" specimen. =
I pulled
the action, and noticed damper flanges wobbly. Noticed that they =
are
glued in to the damper tray, and 4 have come loose.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> They don't want me =
to do much
to it except make it work, just sell it pretty much like it is. =
Should I
remove the dampers, and drill holes to screw the flanges in? Any =
thoughts, because I know that if 4 are loose now, when it is sold, I =
will be
the one to go to the customers house to glue more in when they come
loose.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Also, I noticed =
that the pin
block holes (from underneath) are not drilled all the way through the =
block,
except in the mid section, where you can feel the dimples where the =
drill bit
came close to going through. Is this a normal thing, or has some =
other
tech tried to partially rebuild this, and didn't do it right? =
Should
they always be drilled through the bottom of the block?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Clark =
Sprague</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Associate =
Member</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
Detroit\Windsor</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>