<HTML>In a message dated 5/2/2002 8:21:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, grandrestorations@yahoo.com writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:Re: Pinblocks Date:5/2/2002 8:21:27 PM Pacific Standard Time From:<A HREF="mailto:grandrestorations@yahoo.com">grandrestorations@yahoo.com</A> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> Sent from the Internet                 Brian</BLOCKQUOTE>           Dittos       Maple blocks. Expensive but for me it's the way to go. Bolduc. I've not used the cheap stuff though many manufacturers hace. I've heard of a few that had torque failures after a short time. Bill Spurlock for one.      Best>>>>Dale>>>>>>>>>. <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> Hi David, Ok, I'll stick my neck out.  (We'll see if I'm handed it back detached or not...) I've used Bolduc pinblocks.  They are wonderful. They are also expensive. If a piano isn't particularly special, for whatever reason, I don't have a problem with using a multilaminate block.  I've used them on quite a number of pianos and have not had any significant problems.  I drill them much the same way (same size drill bits) as I would a Bolduc block. I have used the standard multilaminate blocks from Schaff and Apsco.  I haven't used the Delignit type blocks.  If budget is an issue, I don't have a problem making this substitution on something like you describe.  But I'd hate to do it on a Mason & Hamlin or a Steinway or something of similar caliber. Others might have differing opinions. FWIW... Brian T. </BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>