<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">Farrell</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> January 04, 2002 5:49 = AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Glassing the = block</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Hello Del. When you wax your plate flange, you must use some = thin, wipe-on type of wax, such that it doesn't fill small depressions that = may be present in the plate flange surface - or is that not really a big = deal? What do you do.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>How thick do you make your epoxy mixture - peanut butter?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Also, when you put your epoxy mixture in, what is your exact = procedure in order to avoid having excess epoxy migrate to the area between the = pinblock top and the plate web bottom and thus impair the fit. Do you screw the = pinblock to the plate first and then mooosh epoxy into any small gaps = between the pinblock and flange? Or do you put a bead of epoxy on the flange = edge of the pinblock and draw it into the flange somehow? Thanks.</DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080>The wax is standard floor wax. = Others use a spray-on mold release. Either works.</FONT></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080>T</FONT><FONT color=#000080>he = consistency is about like peanut butter. </FONT></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080>The pinblock is shaped for a good wood-to-flange fit first. Then the epoxy matrix is troweled on to the = pinblock (front) surface with a suitable putty knife and the pinblock is screwed = in place. There may be some migration up over the top because there is = inevitably some space between the top of the pinblock and the bottom of the plate = tuning pin panel. Unless, of course, you've done a perfect fit along the top as = well. I've never managed to do that quite. The excess will clean off. When the = epoxy has cured, disassemble the pinblock and clean it up. Knock off the = squeeze-out along the edges, etc. I go over the whole thing with 60-grit sandpaper = lightly to smooth of the roughness from the casting but not enough to alter the fit.</FONT></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080>There are other procedures that = probably work just as well. This is mine. I use the epoxy matrix to improve an already = good pinblock-to-plate fit. Others simply hack out the block on a bandsaw and = use the epoxy matrix to mate the whole thing. That seems to work as well but = I've never been comfortable with the idea of it.</FONT></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080>Del</FONT></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>