<html> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10 (filtered)"> <style>  </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1>  </fo= nt>   -----Original = Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Piannaman@aol.com Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 1:32 = AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Yamaha hammer = spring cord replacement, was Re: U1 hammer butt problem   Terry, Tom Cole(and others) say they can replace the cords in 2 or 2 1/2 hours.  Tom gave at a technical at a chapter meeting last year where he = gave a slide show and step-by-step instructions. I've never done it before, but I have a cord replacement job pending. =  I'm figuring on 4 hours as a first timer, counting learning curve.  Fortunately, the piano belongs to a store I contract for, so it's = an ideal guinea pig situation. If the pinning is still good, most people seem to think it's faster to = do the cords than to replace the flanges.   Dave Stahl Dave, My = post from the archives :      &nbsp= ;        From the archives = with editing: I've done many of = these jobs and have posted a method for > Replacement of = the cords in the past. With input from a tech in Japan, > (Sorry, but = his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the > risk of some = redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the > pinning is = solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are not > worn past = reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old and > If not in a = school situation, I've found them to meet these criteria. > With the = action in the piano I space hammers tightening the hammer flange screws. =       Now with the action on the bench and in the cradle,I  tighten all = remaining screws, reshape hammers > and blow out = all debris.       Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in > this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the > butt plate = screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the > bridle straps = without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. (That was > the tip from = our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed for > removing and = replacing the cords. I put a small amount of acetone on > the slots and = then immediately clean out the old cord and slot with > the chisel = point of a small spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chucked in > the = drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go. Finish the > slot cleanout = with a small brass suede brush, and compressed air or = vac.       (I found that the action centers are unchanged by any acetone that migrates = to the bushing) > =     Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can get the = > cord from = Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not > available wrap = some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an old #88 > key top and = slice down the middle. Either way works, but the idea is to get = 88 > cords cut to = exact length. Now glue one side in the slot -I use > titebond- a = small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small > screw driver = lining up the end of the cord with the line in the flange. > By the time = you get all 88 done the glue will be set. Go back and glue > the other = side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the springs in > the cords, = reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max and > less with = practice. > =     The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, = but > it is = difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the way. > hammer spacing = will not change, the old flanges are already > Dimensionally = stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as > soon. = > =     If this is a worn action with loose pinning then flange > replacement is = the best way. Also if this is an action without butt > plates and the = flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less > clear which = method is best. I've done about quite a few of these and > almost all = have the butt plate style.  > =     ` Tom Driscoll > = >          &nb= sp;            =     </div> </body> </html>