<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; =
charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>From the West System web site - <A
href="http://www.westsystem.com">www.westsystem.com</A> :</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
<P><FONT face=Arial size=3><EM><STRONG>CAUTION!</STRONG> ...... =
Never heat
mixed epoxy in a liquid state over 120°F =
(49°C).</EM></FONT></P></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial size=3><EM>There is a better solution (than use =
of
solvents) to get good penetration without losing strength or =
moisture
resistance. We recommend moderate heating of the repair area and the =
epoxy with
a heat gun or heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and =
penetrate
more deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and =
pores.
Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable shortened, =
slower
hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should =
penetrate
more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it =
will
retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, =
which we
feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the
epoxy.</EM></FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial>I pull the bridge pins, recondition the cap (plane =
&
notch - why else are you restringing the piano?), and dap epoxy into pin =
holes,
dab pin in epoxy, insert pin. I don't have to heat and have had =
excellent
results.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=tune4@earthlink.net =
href="mailto:tune4@earthlink.net">Paul Chick
(Earthlink)</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 02, =
2004 1:03
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Epoxy/bridge pins
application</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=311365616-02102004><FONT face=Arial =
color=#0000ff
size=2>Joe</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=311365616-02102004><FONT face=Arial =
color=#0000ff size=2>Read
your method after I responded. Granted, what I described can be
messy. One needs to be judicious with the epoxy. =
Preheating the
epoxy after mixing allows it to be drizzled into place, and speeds up =
the cure
which can be helpful. Clean up is easy with a sharp chisal when the =
epoxy
reaches a stiff gum state; acetone to follow, but be careful not to =
wash out
the cracks.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=311365616-02102004><FONT face=Arial =
color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=311365616-02102004><FONT face=Arial =
color=#0000ff size=2>Paul
C</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Tahoma><BR><FONT size=2><B>Subject:</B> Re: =
Epoxy/bridge pins
application<BR><BR></FONT></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Paul C said: "<FONT face="Times =
New Roman"
size=3> Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, =
whatever, after
you<BR>place it on the cracks. It becomes very thin and =
migrates into
the cracks<BR>very well, but also sets quickly. Use some tape =
to build
dams around the<BR>area, set the bridge pins where you want them, =
apply glue
then heat. Allow<BR>24 hours to cure. Epoxy can be warmed with =
a heat
gun or blow dryer, whatever, after you<BR>place it on the =
cracks. It
becomes very thin and migrates into the cracks<BR>very well, but =
also sets
quickly. Use some tape to build dams around the<BR>area, set =
the
bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat. =
Allow<BR>24
hours to cure."<BR><BR> Paul C,</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3>Either you
didn't read my method or you chose to dismiss it! =
:-(</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3>My method,
(which was a product of Darrell Fandrich's inventiveness), applies =
the heat,
THEN the epoxy, (in a SMALL amount sufficient to do the job w/o =
slathering the damned stuff all over the damned place!!!!! Yes, =
it
takes a little longer to do than Bill's method, but it's neater, and =
esthetically better, IMO. Same system/different method, (that =
predates
Bill's method by about 10 years!<G>)<BR><BR><BR> Paul
C</FONT><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, =
Tool
Police<BR>Squares R =
I</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>