<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: Using the agraffe cutter</TITLE> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <STYLE type=text/css>BLOCKQUOTE { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px } DL { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px } UL { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px } OL { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px } LI { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px } </STYLE> <META content="MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT size=2>Someone commented that they spray the agraffes with = hi-gloss lacquer for appearance sake or to prevent tarnish.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Question:  Am I right to assume you do this = after installation in the plate?  If before, wouldn't the tool ruin the = finish when installing them?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Thanks</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Carl Meyer</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=sec@overspianos.com.au = href="mailto:sec@overspianos.com.au">Overs Pianos</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, April 14, 2001 = 3:18 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Using the agraffe cutter</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>List,</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>I got a private email requesting further information on the use = of the agraffe cutter, so I thought I'd post my reply to the list also for = those who are interested.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite"><FONT face=Arial>. . . .  Do you = use it in a drill press or in a handle manually?</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><BR></FONT></DIV> <DIV>We use two methods.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>The first and oldest;</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>The drill is fixed to a bench vise to face the operator with the = axis of the drill in a horizontal position and at about waist height, using an = adapter I made for mounting the drill to the tool post of the lathe.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>A stop will need to be fitted to the shank of the cutter, to = ensure that the cutter enters the string hole to the correct depth. Too little = depth will not give the donut shape the correct profile (the string contact with = the brass will be too wide). Too much depth will result in a sharpened = inner string hole profile which will not allow the brass to withstand the = string up bearing pressure.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>The drill is run at low speed only, since very little material is = removed, and the faster the drill, the shorter the tool life of the cutter.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>We use a brass handle for holding the agraffes up to the cutter. = This is made from a piece of 15 mm hex, free machining brass say 150 mm long. = A threaded hole is cut in each end for a different kind of agraffe = thread, eg. we have one with a 1/4 x 36 tpi in one end and a 7/32 x 36 tpi in the = other. The body of the holder is tapered at each end to provide good operator = vision, and the threaded holes are free bored such that the agraffe will only = be held by a couple of threads. This allows for fast insertion and removal of = the agraffes from the holder (This holder is also handy for polishing agraffes).</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>With the agraffe in the holder, it is moved towards the cutter = being careful to hold the agraffe such that the axis of the string hole = lines up with the axis of the cutter. The holes are cut from both sides. After = cutting the second side of agraffe holes, it is turned and the first three = holes cut are just lightly cut again to ensure that no burr remains in the = string hole.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>The second and most recent method.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>We now own a small three axis mill/drill with tilting head (which = we purchased for making action models, but it's also very useful for = other piano type small engineering jobs).</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>The cutter is held in the mill which has accurate depth stop = control. A small flat surface is mounted on the mill table, and set up as a = backing for the flat of the agraffe. The agraffe is held with the holder as = described above for the first method. The depth stop of the mill is adjusted to = allow for the correct insertion of the cutter.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>The second method is by far the best. A small drill press could = be used instead of the mill, but accurate depth control is more difficult to = achieve with a standard drill press.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Ron O</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>-- <BR><BR>_________________________<BR><BR>Website:  http://www.overspianos.com.au<BR>Email:      = mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au<BR>_________________________</DIV></BLOCKQU= OTE></BODY></HTML>