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<DIV>On Sat, 8 Jun 2002 23:20:47 EDT <A
href="mailto:Bigeartb@AOL.COM">Bigeartb@AOL.COM</A>
writes:<BR> <BR>> What about durability in the long haul? Will=
it
hold up? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The literature and testing, and my experience suggests that it =
will
hold up at least as well as nitro. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>>Does it crack easily?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>No, it is a relatively flexible film, more so than nitrocellulose
lacquer.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>>What about clairity?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Equal to the solvent-based stuff. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>>Are piano factories using water based lacquer on their =
lacquered
parts?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Dunno, but they will be if they're not already. Seems I see alot=
of
polyester finishes, though. I do know of at least one major body shop=
(auto) here, the biggest in town, spraying water-based urethanes in their =
scheme
of finish work. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>>Of course it cannot be compatable with solvent based
lacquers...or is it?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I wouldn't go so far as to say you can mix and match to your heart's
delight, but I have many times used Mohawk's solvent-based toners under it =
with
no problems whatsoever, and if the water-based material has cured a week =
you can
topcoat it with solvent-based lacquer with no problem, if you really wanted=
to. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>>I always rub down but spray a final 50/50 coat as the finish coat.=
Can
this be done with water based lacquer?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Not that I'm aware of, and I would think not. There is, of =
course, a
slight alteration of working method required when one moves from solvent to=
water, and this would be a step that would change. The final topcoat =
would
require slightly more rubbing out than that of nitro, in my experience.&=
nbsp;
The differences are not so great as to be substantial,
though. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>>Once again, my initial investigation into this type lacquer =
indicated
it would not <BR>> hold up as well as solvent based lacquers. Has this
changed or do you think <BR>> I received incorrect infomation?</=
DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Depends how long ago you received this information, and who you =
received it
from. People who have never even used water-based lacquer seem =
to
have some pretty hard-held beliefs about its performance. And there
<STRONG>have</STRONG> been some pretty lame water-based finishing materials=
in
the marketplace, to be sure, in the past, but the advances of the past=
5
years have been significant.</DIV>
<DIV> <BR></DIV>
<DIV>> I am open to new methods. I have been working with solvent
<BR>> based lacquers for over 25 years and yes , one must take
percautions. This <BR>> is not for the person working out of a =
garage in
their home. My methods are <BR>> of the "old" school but I =
am
open to this concept but would like <BR>> materials to study for
myself. We must all keep up with changing times or because <BR>> of our=
ignorance will be left behind. <BR>> <BR>> Tommy Black<BR>> =
Decatur,
Ala.<BR></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Tommy, I am in no way trying to convince you to change your methods, =
do
what works for you. If you <STRONG>are</STRONG> interested in =
checking out
the new materials, I wouldn't be surprised if they might offer trial quarts=
for
the professional finisher wanting to 'take a test drive'. It does =
take a
slight adjustment, though in your spraying methods, so some initial =
tinkering
will be necessary. If you got serious about possibly =
changing
over, I would suggest you talk to some finishers down there using
water-based to shorten the learning curve.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Mark Potter</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com">bases-loaded@juno.com</A></=
DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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