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<DIV>Dear Rick,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The order of tasks should be:<BR></DIV>
<DIV>1) douse it with gasoline</DIV>
<DIV>2) light the match</DIV>
<DIV>etc.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Just kidding with you Rick. IMHO, removing the keybed is the only way to go, especially if there is anything else happening, like refinishing, spraying the plate, or bridgework.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Good luck,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Rich Galassini</DIV>
<DIV>Cunningham Piano cp.</DIV>
<DIV>Philadelphia, Pa. </DIV>
<DIV>(215) 991-0834 </DIV> <BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: richard.ucci@att.net<BR>To: pianotech@ptg.org<BR>Sent: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:17:11 +0000<BR>Subject: upright rebuild<BR><BR>
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<DIV>Hi Folks,</DIV>
<DIV>I'm about to embark on an 1920's era upright partial rebuild. Restring, New Hammers, Jack Springs, Butt Felts, Bridle Straps,Dampers. I'm looking for any advice on order of tasks, also, how many of you remove the keybed and string the piano on its back? </DIV>
<DIV>Do you use something to raise the piano up to a comfortable height for stringing? I have a workbench that will hold 1,000 lbs ,also have tilter. I've committed Reblitz to memory and also have most of the Spurlock pamphlets. Also, has anyone tried Arlidge strings?</DIV>
<DIV>Soundboard ,ribs,and bridges are good , keys don't need rebushing yet. </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano</DIV></DIV><!-- end of AOLMsgPart_2_dd29de6f-951d-4872-a579-7155a80936e6 --></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>