<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; =
charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1479" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Patrick C. Poulson said: "<FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3>Hello All: I have taken a square grand =
action into
the shop to regulate, and <BR>am stumped as to how to efficiently =
regulate lost
motion. In particular, how <BR>does one get to the rocker capstan screw =
that is
underneat the hammer rest <BR>rail? My offset screwdriver doen's fit in =
there
very easily, and a straight <BR>screwdriver doens't work very well =
eithere.
Anybody have a suggestion? "<BR>Thanks,<BR>Patrick ,</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>First of all, you cannot Regulate a Square Grand on the Bench! It =
must be
done in the piano! However, while you have the action in the shop, =
(hopefully
doing some reconditioning<G>), there is one thing that can be done =
to gain
access to the Rocker Capstan Screws: draw pencil lines on the "let-off =
rail"
that show the hammer shank positions in juxtaposition with this rail. =
Draw
"cross hairs" that show the position of the rear capstan screw(s) on the =
rail,
as well. Remove the "let-off rail" and lightly center punch the "cross =
hairs"
for each note. Take it to your drill press and drill 1/4" holes through =
the
rail, for each note. A slight counter-sink, on both sides of the hole is =
a good
idea also. Clean up the splinters. Reinstall the rail on the action =
frame. Now
you can access the screws for the Rocker Capstans. I use a long =
screwdriver
w/the tip slightly rounded, (you'll see why, when you start =
adjusting<G>)
One caution: YOU MUST HAVE LOST MOTION! (just like in spinet PSOs) This =
is
difficult to do, as the action frame is VERY flexible and will conform =
to your
bench top, which is in no way like the key bed! (Yikes!<G>) The =
final
adjusting MUST be done IN the piano! Lots of IN/OUT is needed. Use =
the
Handle All The Time!!! (else, your hands will inadvertantly hit a key, =
which
will cause the hammer to go up and catch on the underside of the =
soundboard,
etc., causing a broken hammer!!!!!! Use a "code" with chalk, to tell you =
how
much/little lost motion/let-off/checking is needed, so you reduce the =
number of
times you have to "pull" the action. The last thing you do, is set the
dip/after-touch. BTW, do all of this with the NameBoard removed. When =
you have
accomplished all of this, Then, put the Nameboard back on. Phew! (It's =
so much
easier to show, rather than tell how all this is done!)</DIV>
<DIV>OOPS! While the action is on the bench, make sure you adjust all of =
the
hammer flange pinning! A very light touch with a regulating screw driver =
is
needed. Raise the hammer/shank to string height and drop it. It should =
do two
bounces. If it does more, the flange is too loose. If it does less, the =
flange
is too tight. If you are doing key bushings, you MUST ease the keys for =
very
loose, (but not sloppy!). Back checks need to be aligned and set approx. =
1/16"
clearance with the tails. Iguess that about covers it. If you run into
problems....call me.</DIV>
<DIV>Best Regards AND Good Luck!<G></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool
Police<BR>Squares R I</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>