<HTML>                List               I know we've discussed epoxy bridge repair and Since I'm currently in the middle of the first I've done of this in a while I'm hoping you all will interject your own protocols so I can get it right if I mis-step on this one a bit.    The situation thus far is I've replaced the top two treble bridge caps with new tight maple ones A Mason AA .Yes I found some in an old upright pinblock. The lower portions arte in relatively good shape. A few hairline cracks  and a little bridge pin wiggle at the top but no seroius degredadtion.       I wanted to install new pins to get rid of the grooves at the that pin terminus and also tighten up the pin fit in the cap.  In case it's escaped any of you as it has me the  bridge pins  no. 6, 7, & are not really the size stated in the catalogue but tend to run  1 thou. smaller. A size 6 supposed to be .076 is really .075 and so on. Really quite annoying when trying to just snug up the pin fit in the wood if you know what I mean.     Any way now I know I'm going to need to have enough epoxy in the holes to ream and fit more so than if the pins were correct size.   Using the west systems epoxy and slow hardener ( thanks Terry and Keith R) I poured a small bit in a plastic squeeze bottle and inserted the needle into the holes working it around with the needle as I went and topping off each hole with a final drop. Previous to this I had renotched, planned down the cap to remove all the string marks and dag. Underneath is a beautiful ,tightly 1/4 sawn cap.     I decided to finish the cap in a natural epoxy finnish which I've not done before.    So while the epoxy was setting up in the holes I brushed on the rest of the epoxy into the notches and bridge top. No Problems yet.     Today I found the appearance to be too glossy for my liking so I knocked off the nibs and dust with 800 grit paper then used 4 /0 steel wool to satinize it then repolished it with a paper towel. It looks fabuolous.  The notches I just steel wooled.Considering the epoxy must be harder than the wood should lend to itself to better energy transmission, increased longevity and beauty.     Next will come fittin the pins which I'd appreciate any feed back on the results of this for you.   I was planning to ream the holes with the apropriate size bit and drive in a new pin. The reason I've avoided this process in the past has been because of the untidy out come of sticky epoxy ever where a s I'm pushing bridge pins into it and having it come gushing out everywhere and trying to clean it up.          Dale Erwin</HTML>