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<DIV>In a message dated 12/7/2003 11:49:37 AM Pacific Standard Time, cmpiano=
@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The hanger bolts I referred to have wood ty=
pe screw threads on one end and machine threads on the other. I'm=
more comfortable with the wood screws into the rim. The holes need to=
be waxed (bees wax) so that a slot cut in the top of the screw can be =
used to position the plate. You'll need to lock the nut under the plat=
e. I typically use a set screw into the side of the nut. A=
brass or chrome cap nut (acorn nut) and washer finishes the job.</FONT></DI=
V>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Carl Meyer Ptg assoc<BR>Santa Clara, Ca.</F=
ONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040> <FONT =
size=4> Carl, Refresh my memory on what exactly is a hanger bolt.&nb=
sp; Ok Draw me a picture this sounds to easy. I'm envisioning a wood t=
hreaded device, say 3 "of 1/2" thread & then it has another half or=
part that is, say an 1 to 2 inches long which is a machine t=
hread. The wood threads go all the way into the rim & the machine screw =
threads extends up thru the plate boss. The nut which has been lock tighted =
to the threads extends thru the plate. Then you're adjusting the hole t=
hing by turning the top with a screw driver to set plate height & w=
hen done the cap nut goes on. So as in the Coleman suspension system the amo=
unt of machine thread protruding thru the plate boss can't be any taller tha=
n the cap nut. Right? the only problem with this is that on S&S th=
e plate often sits within .050 of the board surface at the perimeter. =
On the Coleman system I have had the bolt heads thinned to that amount.What =
can be done here?</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040><FONT size=4> Ca=
n you provide me with a source or send me a box with nuts & washers?</FO=
NT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=4> Thanks--=
Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV>
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