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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT =
face=Tahoma
size=2><B>Subject:</B> Farrand Strike Line- Response to David Love =
and
others<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hello David. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>These hammers have all been "filed" =
or "reshaped"
which-ever term you prefer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The other suggestions of things to =
look at and
do, I'll do and work-on this Sunday and</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>respond on my findings. But I =
would ask
again, to be sure, would you really want</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>to file them some more?.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Many thanks, and my regards, Gordon
Holley</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman"
size=3></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3>Imadegawas
are generally pretty hard already. I wouldn't add lacquer.
<BR><STRONG>File them a bit and make sure that all strings are
contacted.</STRONG> Look<BR>carefully from the backside of =
the
capo bar to make sure the hammers are<BR>not hitting too close to the
bar. If the action is pushed in all the way<BR>you can get the =
hammers
to move in further by putting a large screwdriver<BR>under the front =
rail in
front of where you are testing and prying upward,<BR>tilting the =
action
inward. See if that improves things. If it does, =
you<BR>will have
to rehang the hammers farther out on the shank. I am =
assuming<BR>you are
not catching the checks on the way up or blocking against
the<BR>strings. It sounds like it's probably a strike point
issue. One other<BR>thing to check is that on some pianos =
the edge
oof the plate can get<BR>perilously close to the strike point and the =
inside
edge of the hammer can<BR>be contacting the plate before the hammer =
hits the
string string. Look at<BR>the inside shoulder of the hammer and =
see if
you have a plate mark from<BR>repeated impact. If so, file the =
shoulder
of the hammer until you have<BR>clearance, move the hammer line in =
slightly,
or rake the hammers back until<BR>you get the strike point that you
want. <BR><BR>David Love<BR><SPAN =
class=917580813-14082004><FONT
face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2> </FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3><SPAN
class=917580813-14082004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>FWIW I
ran into a similar situation...can't remember the brand of the
grand. When a good strike point was found the hammers would =
hang up
on the belly rail. (The action was tilted as described by David =
Love, to
get around this.) About 1/8" was trimmed from the rail to get
clearance. Orange shellac was applied to the rail to seal the =
wood and
match the color. The hammers were moved back on new shanks =
to the
determined strike point. No regulation or touch problems were
encountered.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3><SPAN
class=917580813-14082004></SPAN></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3><SPAN
class=917580813-14082004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>Paul
=
C</FONT> </SPAN></FONT><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>