<HTML><HEAD> <META charset=US-ASCII http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; cha= rset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff= f"> <DIV> <DIV>  <FONT size=3>   Hi Ron</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>     Making my own bridge pins = is/would seem to be a costly & pointless waste of my time. I'd rather be= fishing. As topperpiano said a black hole of endless rebuilders hours or so= me such. Totally</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  I just got a supply of knickel plated pins f= rom Pianotek & except for some who may choose to split hairs over the ty= pe of finish they prefer on their bridge pins, they are very nice looking. I= ts kind of like , Do Iike blue tuning pins or knickel ones. Its just a = preference.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>    Besides I've never had a client get u= pset at whether there new Yamaha had shiny silver pins as opposed to their p= reviously owned grandmamerica special with the dingy blued ones.</FONT></DIV= > <DIV><FONT size=3>   If I'm doing a bridge repin job, the functi= on is the foremost consideration & looks second. I like both but  m= y first choice is a tight bridge pin first without having to use a slim= y messy solution of whatever to size it. My second choice is the slimy solut= ion. However I've yet to figure out how to keep the dust out of it. Know wha= t I mean. Maybe it's just me. I might be epoxy impaired</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>   As to David L.s question. With a slightly l= arger pin it may be completely un-necessary to ream or drill for the next si= ze up. In my experience if a bridge has cracking already then any thing more= than a little bit tighter will simply cause the cracking to become wor= se. As I said once before, I feel sorry for myself when I have to get the th= oroughly epoxied pins out of a stwy bridge so I can get the caps off. Oh &am= p; not thinking to kindly of the prior installer of said messy solutions &am= p; pins.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>   Ron Nice photos & description. Thanks f= or sharing this</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3> End of rant</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>    Dale</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue = 2px solid"><FONT face=Arial>Hi Dale,<BR><BR>>Although i don not do this= job frequently occasionally I find it <BR>>advantageous to pull bridge p= ins in an existing bridge,renotch & <BR>>then put in new pins.<BR><BR= >Likewise.<BR><BR>>  However as many of you may know from doing this= that most recently <BR>>the current copper supply of bridge pins are jus= t slightly smaller <BR>>than the most originals which obviously does not = help with getting a <BR>>tight fit.<BR><BR>This can be a problem. We've m= ade our own pins to the required size <BR>by getting silver steel centreless= ground to the oversize diameter we <BR>require, then cutting the pins from = the ground lengths of silver <BR>steel. But its a slow and costly process. R= enner supplies bridge pins <BR>in several graduated diameters, but these pin= s do not have a very <BR>high standard of finish. We've been using them to d= ate, but I'm <BR>looking for a better quality pin.<BR><BR>Ron O.</FONT></BLO= CKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>