<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> <html> Julie, Yes, it makes sense.  You sanded at the balance rail, of course.  When changing the height of the keys at the balance rail, one has to be sure the whole key doesn't end up too low, with the front lips getting too close to the keyslip when the key is pressed down.  But I wonder if this is an efficient way to solve the problem.  We must consider efficiency when we charge for our time, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.  I just never tried it. How thick were the balance rail punchings?  Since this was in a piano school, might another class or student have used punchings that were too thick?  Schaff has them in five thicknesses.  But I'm sure your teacher knows that. Regards, Clyde Alpha88x@aol.com wrote: <blockquote TYPE=CITE>Clyde,         In my experience at school, there was a similar problem in a studio upright in one of the rooms at school. There were no punchings that could be removed except the the cloth ones from under the balance rail. Our teacher suggested that the key itself may have swelled from moisture and never shrunk back and the whole key lever may be a slight bit bigger (hence sit higher on the balance rail than originally made to).         We took about a 150 sandpaper and sanded off a slight bit to bring the key back down. It worked. But we only sanded a few thousandths. When one sands, the bottom of a key, it must be sanded a bit, put back tested then removed, sanded a bit more, checked again and one has to keep repeating the process until the desired height is achived (Just a possiblity) Does this make sense? Julie Reading   In a message dated 11/6/03 6:33:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, cedel@supernet.com writes:   <blockquote TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Friends, While tuning a 1980 Wurlitzer studio piano today I noticed some of the bass hammers would damp the strings depending on how they were played. Letoff was fine, but there was too much keydip, resulting in the backchecks pushing the hammers into the strings after letoff. It appears to me that all other specs will be in the correct range if the keydip is reduced.  Can this be done by shimming up the front rail of the key frame, if there are no shims to remove from under the balance rail?  I've never tried this.  I could put card punchings under all the front felt punchings, I know.  Advice? Regards, Clyde  </blockquote>  </blockquote> </html>