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<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3>So do the initials stand for Topper, Peter, or what? I
obviously missed your name.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3>Regards,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Topperpiano@aol.com
href="mailto:Topperpiano@aol.com">Topperpiano@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 13, 2004 6:14
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Rookie regulating
question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Have you already done repinning? Have to assume that you did
when replacing flanges, damper levers etc. Just asking because you said
that you would repin the wobblies when your supplies arrived. Just in
case you repinned the offending rubbing parts yourself - incorrect reaming of
centers or just worn out centers could cause a repinned part to be wildly
off. The jacks are either a loose flange or flanges that have been
crookedly reglued by another tech. In that case you will have
to glue them or reglue depending on the problem. Hammers that hit
each other can be loose hammer heads, spacing, travelling, incorrectly
repaired shanks. Sometimes the shanks can be just warped and have
to be burned (heated and moved while still very warm to the touch).
Sometimes it is easier and faster to pop the hammer head off, pull the old
shank out of the butt and replace. TP </BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>