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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Thank you Michael.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Where are those Canton flannel buffers available
from?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL
MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 1:50
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> buffing keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I have found buffing to be
more of an art than a science. When your buffing ivory and bone you are
doing two things, one is smoothing the surface and removing fine scratches,
the other is sealing the pores. When your buffing plastic you are smoothing
and removing fine scratches and not necessarily sealing it because plastic is
not porous. I have found that a sewn canton flannel buff followed by
an loose canton flannel buff works well for me. Take into consideration
that when you are buffing you are simply putting the icing on the cake. What
do I mean? Buffing is to shine and seal (in the case of ivory and bone.) The
surface preparation should already be done. Buffing removes fine scratches
well, and will leave a perfectly flat surface. If one relies on buffing to
remove deep pits and scratches, this is where problems arise. The surface will
not be perfectly flat, and heat will be generated. Heat will crack and
burn ivory and bone, heat will melt and deform plastic. The trick is
surface preparation, keep the key moving, and apply the proper pressure.
Compound or rouge plays a role also. Compound can contain abrasives, you want
to be sure that you are using a buffing compound and not a cutting compound. A
cutting compound will leave as many scratches and lines in the top as you are
trying to remove. I look at buffing keys as I look at refinishing a piano
case. Your surface preparation and repairs must be done first, spraying
lacquer on a piano sanded and left in 80 grit will not be as smooth and look
as good as a case sanded to 600 grit, grain-filled and sprayed.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">John
Ross</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 12:06
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded Keytops, problems
buffing</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Hi,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Joe had mentioned problems
buffing.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I also have problems in this
area.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on a softer buffing wheel, but
have been unable to find a source. The selections available at my suppliers,
are limited. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Any ideas?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on slowing the wheel down. Would
that help?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>John M. Ross</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A>
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net
href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 11:50
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I agree with you 100%,
thank you, it is wonderful that you know these things and are willing to
share them. Molded keytops are all the same dimension within one set.
Keysticks unfortunately are not (except for several sets of Yamaha keys
I've covered that were within 0.004 of each other). I've found that
most sets of keys differ in length, width and height. I have one set of
keys I'm recovering now where the keysticks vary in width up to 0.065.
This makes recovering them tricky. If you have a keystick wider than the
top you will have to trim the stick, if the top is wider you will have to
trim the top. Molded tops being the same width have the contours and
radiuses "molded" into them, so if you trim this you will, as you said
then have to reshape them, the radiuses and contour to match and yes, the
dreaded buffing. I prefer to apply what I call custom tops. This is
similar to factory procedures in which you apply a separate top and
front. If done this way one can trim the excess and shape the keys
regardless of the inconsistencies in width and yield good visual results.
I've found that buffing plastic and ivory both have there areas of
concern, but I use different wheels and techniques for both with good
results. On the topic of keytop materials, I'm pretty sure I have all
of the material available within the states and offer them. I have also
acquired material from Aug. Laukhuff and Otto Heuss from Germany as
well as P&S organ supply from England. These materials are of very
high quality and texture but expense prevents their wide use. I've noticed
that piano manufacturers are trending towards thicker and thicker tops,
this means replacement tops will need to be thicker. I actually have a
stash of keytop material that is 0.105 thick, but very rarely use them. I
am not adverse to machining down the keystick to accommodate a new top
because I am doing it on milling machines with tolerances to within a few
thousandths of an inch, and it must be done. If one measures a keystick at
0.970 and is putting on a top that is 0.075 than you machine the key to
0.895 and you have retained the original dimension. The original dimension
must be maintained or there will be a regulation nightmare. In some
cases I find that a keystick has been machined with little regard for
tolerances, and then a corrective measure must be applied. Three choices
exist, have a new keyboard made, use a thicker or thinner top (depending
on which direction the error is made), or build up the keys. Two of these
choices are very expensive. Keytop replacement is tricky and is a decision
that should be well thought out. The keyboard is a major focal point
of the piano, it is the interaction point with the piano and is the
foundation of all regulation. It is a challenge to balance appearance,
playability and economy. Joe, what do you mean by "stink in my shop?" are
you referring to a particular glue or the smell of machining off old
plastic and ivory? Mike</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joegarrett@earthlink.net
href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">Joe Garrett</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 1:03
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael Morvan said: "<FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3>The quality of the keytop, quality of the
=<BR>piano, quality of the rebuild, preference of the customer,
knowledge and =<BR>preference of the technician and budget. Crappy
"molded" keytops are =<BR>nice if applied properly, and three thousand
dollars worth of new ivory =<BR>is "crappy" if not applied properly.
Molded keytops have the advantage =<BR>of being inexpensive, uniform in
shape and appearance, and relatively =<BR>easy to apply with minimal
skill, tooling and yields fair results. A =<BR>disadvantage is
that many people feel that they are a cheap top and as a =<BR>result do
not use them."</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Michael,</DIV>
<DIV>What you've said, I agree with. However, it's what you didn't say
about moulded keytops that concerns me.</DIV>
<DIV>1. Moulded keytops assumes that all key sets are the same
dimension, which they are not. Therefore, trimming is necessary. Here
lies the rub, as trimming of moulded keytop material is far more
difficult than other materials. Especially in making the key set look
consistant and have a smooth feel under the players hands. Secondly, if
you've ever had to (try) to buff out scratches of moulded key top
material, (and I'm sure you have, if you do keytops for a living.), it's
next to impossible, as the material is too soft and will "burn/gaul"
when even light pressure on a buffing wheel is applied. I'm not saying
it can't be done, but it's a royal pain in the patoot to do!<G>
Lastly, my aversion to moulded keytops is that it is too thick,
especially for many older pianos with tight tolerances of the piano
furniture. This requires milling the keystick down. I am totally averse
to this practice for many reasons. Some of the "moulded keytop material"
from Europe is better as some of it is what we call "Plexiglass". This
material can be sanded and buffed. It's still too thick for my
eye.<G> I too do keytops, but as only part of my overall service
to my clients. I used to have someone else do it, as I really don't like
the stink in my shop. Out of frustration with others I've taken to doing
it....stink or not.<G></DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool
Police<BR>Squares R
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