<HTML xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:v == "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o == "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w == "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1 == "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html;= charset=us-ascii"> <META content=Word.Document name=ProgId> <META content="Microsoft Word 10" name=Generator> <META content="Microsoft Word 10" name=Originator><LINK= href="cid:filelist.xml@01C4E472.605ABAE0"= rel=File-List><o:SmartTagType name="PersonName"= namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:Sm= artTagType> <STYLE> st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } </STYLE> <STYLE>  </STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY lang=EN-US id=role_body style="tab-interval: .5in"= bottomMargin=7 vLink=purple link=blue leftMargin=7 topMargin=7= rightMargin=7> <DIV class=Section1>   Is that jig similar to the John Hartmand (I= think) one in the Journal?   It looked like a big= block of wood with slots for the shanks and rested on top of the= flanges.   David I.   ----- Original message= ----------------------------------------> From: David Love= <<A= href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcas= t.net</A>> To: 'Pianotech' <<A= href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>> Rec= eived: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 19:55:37 -0800 Subject: RE: shop tip= trivia--trimming shanks I use small hand held supporting jig which I made and= supports the shanks from side play while it rests on top of the= flanges.   I= then trim the shanks one at a time with a Japanese fine tooth= pull saw that cuts them flush.  I often don’t sand them after as the saw cuts= them very close and I don’t like taking the chance of stressing= the centers with a disk sander.    <o:p></o:p> <SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY:= Arial"><o:p> </o:p> <SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">One= problem with the belt sander technique is that I prefer the= sanding marks to lay perpendicular to the checking direction.=  <o:p></o:p> <SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY:= Arial"><o:p> </o:p> <st1:PersonName>Jon Page</st1:PersonName> has(d) a system in= which he trims the shank and tails the hammers at the same time= with a band saw (I believe).  It does require removing the shanks from the= rail and building a pivoting jig, but it certainly seems to work= for him.  It is also= very useful if you like to measure the strike weights after the= hammers are glued up which usually requires removing them from= the rail anyway.  <o:p></o:p> <SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY:= Arial"><o:p> </o:p> <DIV> <SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; mso-no-proof: yes">David= Love <st1:PersonName>davidlovepianos@comcast.net</st1:PersonName><= FONT color=navy size=2> <o:p></o:p></DIV> -----Original Message----- <SPAN= style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:= pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]= On Behalf Of= <st1:PersonName>Erwinspiano@aol.com</st1:PersonName><FONT= face=Tahoma size=2> Sent:= Friday, December 17, 2004 5:29 PM <SPAN= style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:= pianotech@ptg.org Subject: shop tip trivia--trimming= shanks <o:p> </o:p> <DIV>   = <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>   Hey guys<FONT= face=Arial color=black size=2><o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>   I've tried several ways of trimming= the long ends of new shanks. For years I'd clamp a section O= shanks in a jaras or spurlock clamp & then cut with a small= back saw. The set up got to be tedious recently & frankly= the procedure isn't fool proof so I have started using the new= pianotek center pin cutters which are nicely= made which cut cleanly enough to avoid tear out of any= wood that protrudes into the shank hole. What little is= left I remove by propping the shanks up on a straight edge,= placing the action right out on the edge of my bench &= removing the remainder with a 3" by 18 inch belt sander with 120= ish paper. I use just the front roller primarily. It's an easy= process & it also cleans up any minor imperfections in= hammer tail line. The tails are lightly roughed as well. I don't= like tails very  roughened but it seems to help the intial= seating of the tail in new check leather.<FONT= face=Arial color=black size=2><o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  It's important to screw the stack down= to the bench for safety before sanding so it doesn't flop= on the floor. DAMHIK cause I haven't done it Safety first ya= know.<SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY:= Arial"><o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  What do other do?<FONT= face=Arial color=black size=2><o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>    Merry= Christmas<SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY:= Arial"><o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>    Dale Erwin= <o:p></o:p> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> <SPAN= style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Erwins= Pianos Restorations 4721 Parker Rd. Modesto, Ca= 95357 209-577-8397 Rebuilt Steinway , Mason &Hamlin= Sales www.Erwinspiano.com<o:p></o:p></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></H= TML>