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<DIV><FONT color=#008080>Comments below:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>> At 9:46 PM -0400 5/22/03, Farrell wrote:<BR>> >Another =
thing to
keep in mind with epoxy - it relies on a mechanical <BR>> >bond =
between
wood and epoxy and between metal and epoxy. It is <BR>> =
>recommended by
West System that when bonding with epoxy to metal <BR>> >that the =
metal
surface be sanded rough, coated with thin epoxy, and <BR>> >the =
epoxy
sanded into the metal for the most secure bond.<BR>> <BR>> Oh boy, =
this
sounds like a job for a compulsive-obsessive!<BR>> <BR>> >A =
nice new
shiny bridge pin is not likely to establish a good bond <BR>> >to =
epoxy. I
can chip epoxy off any glossy surface real easy when I <BR>> >get =
waste on
it - my floor, table top, etc.<BR>> <BR>> Are we really depending =
on the
epoxy to glue the pin in the hole? I <BR>> thought we just wanted a =
tight
fit, using epoxy's gap-filling <BR>> abilities. A pin in a raw maple =
hole
isn't being glued in.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008080>This response was related to Richard B.'s
post describing a method of installing bridge pins into a hole =
larger than
the bridge pin. I assume here that "a pin in a raw maple hole" =
means a
snug fit.</FONT><BR> <BR>> Bill Ballard RPT<BR>> NH Chapter,
P.T.G.<BR></DIV>
<DIV>> Bonding wood to steel isn't the intent here, merely zero =
clearance
support. <BR>> Toward that end, I still prefer at least a light drive =
fit
regardless of <BR>> the addition of CA, epoxy, or nothing at =
all.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>> Ron N</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008080>No, but list contributors have posted =
previously about
pins being bonded permanently into bridge pin holes. I was just trying =
to spread
a fun fact about epoxy (useful at slow dinner =
parties).</FONT></DIV>
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