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<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2>Hi Terry, questions on uprights? Not =
worthy, not
worthy. Except I have paying customers who don't have room for a grand, =
love the
old piano cases and want them to work well. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>I think you misinterpreted my comment. I do not
question doing high-level work on an upright, but rather I'm an =
very
interested and I think a quality upright is very much worth putting the =
effort
into it. So that is why I say that I have many questions about upright
touchweight - so little has been written about it. Yes, I realize many =
will say
they are not worth the effort, but they can be. And there is one more =
reason to
add to your list of reasons one may want to have one - they can be =
fabulous
instruments!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2>I think it is simpler if we look at =
the fact that
the hammer weight has no effect. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Ah, but it does. Inertia. Won't affect static =
weights, but
will become obvious when playing</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2>I hung the heaviest Wurzen felt =
Ronsen hammers on
the thing and the DW was the same at the bass as the treble. The =
friction
becomes equal note to note and less than on a grand because the =
friction at
the hammer butt is basically nothing. This being the case, the leading =
is the
same from note to note to achieve the same balance of the key and DW can =
be
achieved this way. I don't like actions with a 56 gram downweight. Too =
heavy.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>I don't know this for fact, but I strongly think =
that you will
not want the same leading from key to key. You will want more in bass =
and less
in treble, much like a grand, so that the inertia will have the feel of =
mass in
the bass and light in treble. Also, the hammers do rest against the rest =
rail -
there will be a bit of difference in DW due to hammer movement even with =
a
static measurement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2>The key ratio is a 1.66 so I'm =
thinking the
factory got the balance rail off by 1/8 inch. You have to double =
the
balance rail mistake soI figure a 5mm capstan move should do it. By =
tilting the
capstan I should pick up 3 grams DW. The 5 mm will be along the =
top of the
key and the top of the capstan will move 2 to 3 mm in relation to the =
sticker.
Total I expect to pick up 4 to 5 grams of DW. There is room =
on these
stickers to come that far forward but I can always remove the rail and =
take out
some wood to move the bottom rail where ever I want. That's the beauty =
of long
stickers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>What is the overall action ratio?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2>I certainly don't want to lighten the =
action by
adding lead. Removing lead might make it free wheel, not enough mass. I =
want to
see if changing the geometry to solve the DW problem will give it the =
"snap" I'm
looking for.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>That's why I was asking how much lead is in the =
keys? If there
is too little, adding lead could be the ticket!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia size=2>Thanks for your interest Terry. No =
pictures yet.
I'll have to get some.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Georgia></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Would love to see them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Terry =
Farrell</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>