<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/7/02 9:58:50 AM Central Standard Time, davidlovepianos@earthlink.net writes:<BR>
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<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">What's the method of choice for removing ebony from the key. Whereas I have generally used a chisel for taking off plastic sharps, the additional surface area of ebony sharps may produce some wood loss, which I would like to avoid. It seems like maybe a band saw for the bulk of it followed by a sharp chisel might be the way to go. Any suggestions.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
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</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">David Love </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
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For ebonies, they are usually glued on. Since there is not pressure on the joint, it is easy to break that glue joint. I have found the most effective method is to grab the key with a pair of pliers, and the ebony with another pair, opposite each other, and just snap it off. This works on a vast majority of the keys. On those that are not as cooperative, I would suggest you lay the key flat on a hard surface, and use a 1" chisel at the joint between the sharp and key. <BR>
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I would not use a band saw. There is too much chance of cutting the key, and thus not getting a flat surface on to which to glue the new ebony. If you do take some wood off using the above method, you can repair the with autobody filler.<BR>
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Wim </FONT></HTML>