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I now use a wonderful steel box I bought at Harbor Freight Tools. It is
just like the cheap plastic types but will never crack, chip, etc., very
professional looking. I lined the lid with felt which seals each of the
compartments when it is closed so that the punchings don't slip out and get
mixed up. I modified one compartment to double size to fit my dip blocks
and sharp leveler which fit perfectly. As far as applying punchings I use
medium sized forceps. These are basically the long special jaw-like tweezers
with a scissors type grip. They are perfect for picking up any sized punching
right out of the box and placing them over the pins. The end of the tool
has just enough of an edge on it to to lift seated punchings off a pin. It
took a lot of time, trial, and error but I think I have perfected the perfect
system.<br>
<br>
Rob Goodale, RPT<br>
Las Vegas, NV<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Wimblees@AOL.COM">Wimblees@AOL.COM</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:38.2379f6f7.29a531b1@aol.com"><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size="2">
Over the years I have tried a number of different ways of holding punchings
while leveling keys. I keep them in a compartment box, (you know, the kind
with about 24 1" share cubicles). But to get one out has always been a challenge.
When I reach my fingers in the cubicle, I wind up picking up three or four
of them. The thick punching aren't too bad, but those thin ones are a struggle.
I've put them in the palm of my hand, and I've laid them on a flat surface.
But I still have difficulty picking up just one punching, unless I wet my
finger. And when you're leveling keys, your fingers have a tendency to get
dirty, so that isn't too sanitary. <br>
<br>
So, what are some of you doing? Any tricks any one is willing to pass along
to make leveling keys easier and more sanitary. <br>
<br>
Wim </font></font></blockquote>
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