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Hi Zoran,<br>
50% alchhol to water, it is most cotrolled by applying with a camel
haired brush about 1/4" diameter apply to the shoulders untill you
see it soak about 1/8" to 3/16". If you still have a lot of
percussive noise lightly soak the strike point about 1/16" . in
other words get most of the excess fluid out of the brush before
applying.<br>
This teatment will require the hammers to be reshaped a little and tends
to deform the shoulders.<br>
Steam voicing is far more controlled and more effective. See previous
post in archives. I could also send you a reprint of a complete Journal
artical with photo's, if you forward a mailing address.<br>
Script enclosed as attachment.<br>
To brighten hammers, I prefer to reshape and dry iron with the voicing
iron fairly hot, in the majority of cases this along with close let off
and well regulated jack height is enough, whilst maintaining a warm dark
quality at <i>ppp.<br>
</i>Hope this helps<br>
Roger<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
At 01:12 AM 04/09/99 +0200, you wrote: <br>
<font size=2><blockquote type=cite cite>
</font><br>
<font size=2> Hi List,</font><br>
<font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=2> my name is Zoran Grujic,I
work as piano teacher and technician in Yugoslavia.I will have much
voicing work on rock-hard hammers in old,bad grands in musical school
here.I would like to hear some of your experiences about hammer softeners
(alcohol/water,or some other mixture).How much water goes into
alcohol?How to apply it?I am also interested in shelac hammer
hardener,which was in use before lacquers.The same questions as before.I
checked archives,but didn't get all answers about it.</font><br>
<font size=2> Many thanks in
advance.Regards,</font><br>
<font size=3> <br>
<br>
</font><font size=2>
Zoran</font><br>
<font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=2>
zorang@mgnet.co.yu </font><br>
</blockquote><br>
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