<html> >Push the paper down onto the bridge so that the pins are sticking up through the neat holes they have made and the paper cannot now slip Next >carefully work over the hitchpins: while keeping the paper taut, smack the paper with the sandpaper until you get a nice small hole for each >hitchpin; you don't want to make a rough hole big enough for the pin to pass through, just a tiny hole to show where the top of the pin is. I prefer to designate the hitchpins first and snug the paper down around them. Since the hitchpins are angled, this will advance the paper forwards a bit. If the bridge pins were punctured first and the paper secured, then the paper will buckle in the backscale once the hitchpins are marked.  The difference in this offset from the top of the hitchpin to the bottom can be a few millimeters, this will ultimately affect the location of the ends of the wrap. In all the years of sending off patterns, I have never received a request to only mark the tips and not snug the paper down around the pins. To me, this establishes the true distance from h/p to b/p. Regards. Jon Page,   piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. <a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:</a>jonpage2001<a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">@mediaone.net</a> <a href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</a> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</html>