<!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <html><head><style type="text/css"></style><title>RE: Epoxy Man Strikes Again</title></head><body> <div>At 1:28 PM +0100 8/3/03, Isaac OLEG wrote:</div> <div><br></div> <blockquote type="cite" cite>And what makes the Titebond crystallizing so much, for a PVA based<br> emulsion glue ?<br> <br> Do you know is there some Phenol in the mix, it does not smell as the</blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite>usual acetic odor of the white glues we have in Europe ?</blockquote> <div><br></div> <div>Unknown Isaac. It may be worth putting the question to technical people at Titebond. com</div> <div><br></div> <div>http://www.titebond.com/</div> <div><br></div> <div><i>(This is an excellent website)</i></div> <div><br></div> <div>The Titebond people might be willing to answer this. I've CC'd them as part of this reply, so Franklin International may wish to comment.</div> <div><br></div> <div>Regards,</div> <div>Ron O.</div> <div>Overs Pianos</div> <hr> <div><br></div> <div>> -----Message d'origine-----<br> > De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org<br> > [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la<br> > part de Ron Overs<br> > Envoye : samedi 8 mars 2003 09:16<br> > A : Pianotech<br> > Objet : RE: Epoxy Man Strikes Again<br> ><br> ><br> > At 4:36 PM -0800 7/3/03, gordon stelter wrote:<br> ><br> > >A drum made of fiberglass and Titebond(TM) would be<br> > >even duller, becuause Titebond(TM) is PVA based<br> > >(Polyvinylacetate ) and never dries truly hard. Modern<br> > >chewing gum is also PVA. Epoxy dries harder, is a<br> > >better sound conductor and more moisture resistant.<br> > >     Also, Titebond, especially Titebond II, stains<br> > >yellow pretty badly, especially on spruce.<br> > >      Thump<br> ><br> > While standard PVA adhesives do not 'dry hard' as you mention, and<br> > they are also subject to creep, Titebond does not have this<br> > problem.<br> > When Titebond is properly dried it will shatter when<br> > surplus glue is<br> > remove with a chisel or scraper. With a tensile strength of<br> > over 3000</div> <div>> psi, you will have no problem gluing a bridge with Titebond Extend.<br> > The longer working time of Extend can be handy when laminating. We<br> > use it for making the laminated sound board cut off.<br> ><br> > Regarding the positioning of the sound board buttons, I<br> > would concur<br> > with Ron N. and Del. It is much better to position sound board<br> > buttons between ribs and not to screw or dowel into the rib. I have<br> > wondered whether it would be better to replace the button<br> > screws with<br> > maple dowels after the bridge/panel joint has cured. It<br> > might help to<br> > prevent the tendency of the bridge to pull over. I noticed that<br> > Fazioli was doweling the bridges through into the ribs in 1994,<br> > however I don't know if it remains their practice today.<br> ><br> > Ron O.</div> <div>> --</div> <x-sigsep><pre>-- </pre></x-sigsep> <div>_______________________<br> <br> OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY<br> Grand Piano Manufacturers<br> <br> Web: http://overspianos.com.au<br> mailto:info@overspianos.com.au<br> _______________________</div> </body> </html>